Landscaping | Platt Hill Nursery

How to Start a Pollinator Garden

Platt Hill Nursery — Wed, 11 Jun 2025 18:20:43 +0000

Why Pollinator Gardens Matter

Pollinators, like bees, butterflies, moths, beetles, hummingbirds, and more, play a vital role in the health of our ecosystems and food systems. But across the globe, these essential creatures are in trouble. Populations are shrinking due to a mix of habitat loss, pesticide use, disease, and climate change. Many pollinators, especially native bees, are struggling to find the food and nesting spaces they need to survive.

The good news? Gardeners can absolutely help turn things around.

You don’t need a big yard or a fancy setup to make a difference. Even a small garden bed or a couple of planters can give bees and butterflies a much-needed place to land. Pollinator gardens bring life into your space and support the health of your neighborhood’s ecosystem. Every flower you plant adds to the patchwork of green spaces that help local wildlife survive and thrive.

Why Pollinator Gardens Matter to Local Ecosystems

Pollinator gardens bring in bees and butterflies, but their impact goes far beyond the flowers. They help support the whole ecosystem, from the soil under your feet to the birds in the trees.

These plantings support local food webs by feeding insects, birds, amphibians, and even small mammals. The whole system benefits when pollinators have access to the plants they rely on. Flowers bloom more abundantly, birds find more insects to feed their young, and soil microbes thrive under diverse root systems.

Plus, pollinator gardens help reduce our reliance on synthetic fertilizers and pesticides by promoting natural balance. Even modest backyard gardens can serve as crucial “green corridors” that reconnect fragmented habitats, especially in suburban and urban areas like ours here in Chicagoland.

What Are Specialist Bees?

Among the many pollinators that benefit from these green spaces, native bees play one of the most important roles. And within that group, some bees have incredibly specific needs.

Known as specialist bees, these pollinators are native species that have evolved to feed from very specific plants. One great example is the squash bee (Peponapis pruinosa), which only visits plants in the squash family. These bees are incredibly efficient pollinators, but they can’t simply switch to another flower if their preferred plant disappears.

That’s why plant selection matters so much. Without their native plant partners, specialist bees simply vanish. Creating a garden that includes those key native plants is one of the best ways to protect these vulnerable pollinators.

Why Native Plants Matter to Specialist Bees

Native plants are perfectly matched to the needs of native pollinators. They offer the right kinds of nectar and pollen, and they bloom in sync with the lifecycle of the insects that depend on them.

In contrast, many imported or hybridized plants either lack nutritional value or flower at times that don’t align with the local bee population’s needs. That means even a flower-filled garden could be lacking the real resources pollinators rely on.

Choosing native plants brings real benefits to your garden and the wildlife around it. These plants offer the food and habitat that local pollinators depend on, and in many cases, can’t find anywhere else.

Meet the Other Pollinators

Bees might be the MVPs of the pollination world, but they’re far from the only players.

Butterflies, moths, hummingbirds, beetles, and even some flies are essential pollinators, too. Butterflies tend to favor flat, open-faced flowers like milkweed, while hummingbirds love red, tubular blooms like bee balm. Some beetles and flies even take on pollinating duties in cooler or wetter conditions when bees are less active.

By planting a wide variety of flower shapes, sizes, and colors, you create a garden that speaks the love language of every kind of pollinator.

Your Garden Can Make a Difference

In a time when so many natural habitats are shrinking, every flower bed, parkway strip, or schoolyard garden can serve as a lifeline. When you plant a pollinator garden, you’re not just adding beauty to your space, you’re actively rebuilding the broken links in our ecosystem.

Pollinator gardens offer an easy, beautiful way to make a difference. You can plant in a backyard, a schoolyard, or a shared community space and still have a positive impact. Every bloom helps restore balance and brings us one step closer to healthier local ecosystems.

How to Start Your Own Pollinator Garden

Creating a thriving pollinator garden doesn’t take a green thumb or a huge budget. With the right approach, anyone can grow a space that supports bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and more. Here’s your step-by-step guide to building a pollinator-friendly garden that works beautifully in Chicagoland’s Zone 5 climate.

Step 1: Find the Perfect Spot

Pollinators love sunshine. Choose a spot that gets at least 6 hours of direct sun each day, the more the better. Full sun encourages the best flowering and keeps nectar production high, which keeps pollinators coming back.

Think about visibility, too. If you can see your garden from a kitchen window or patio, you’ll enjoy watching all the activity it brings. Avoid windy or heavily trafficked areas when possible, and look for a location where the garden won’t be shaded out by trees or buildings.

Inspect the plant for any dead, damaged, or weak stems, and remove these entirely. This not only improves the plant’s appearance but also promotes better airflow, which reduces the risk of disease. For shrubs that have grown crowded or unruly, thin them by removing up to one-third of the oldest stems at ground level. This gradual rejuvenation encourages fresh growth without shocking the plant.

Refrain from pruning during late summer, fall, or early spring, as the buds for next year’s flowers are already developing. Over-pruning during these periods can significantly reduce flowering potential.

Best Tools for Pruning Hydrangeas

Using the right tools for pruning hydrangeas makes the job easier, safer, and more effective. Proper tools ensure clean cuts, which promote faster healing and reduce the risk of disease. Here’s a breakdown of the best tools to have on hand:

Hand Pruners
For light pruning tasks, such as trimming spent flower heads or cutting thin stems, bypass hand pruners are a must. Their sharp, scissor-like blades make clean cuts without crushing the plant tissue, which is ideal for maintaining healthy growth.
Loppers
When dealing with thicker branches, loppers provide the extra power you need. These long-handled tools can easily cut stems up to 1-2 inches in diameter, making them perfect for older, woody hydrangea stems. Look for loppers with ergonomic handles for comfort during extended use.
Pruning Saw
A pruning saw is the tool of choice for cutting through very thick or tough stems that hand pruners and loppers can’t handle. These saws are compact, sharp, and designed for clean cuts on larger branches.
Gloves
Sturdy gardening gloves protect your hands from cuts, scrapes, and potential irritation from hydrangea sap. Choose gloves with a snug fit to maintain dexterity while working.
Cleaning Supplies
Disinfecting tools between cuts prevents the spread of disease. Keep a cloth and rubbing alcohol or a solution of water and bleach nearby to wipe blades clean.

Investing in high-quality tools and keeping them sharp ensures your hydrangeas receive the best care, resulting in healthier plants and beautiful blooms.

Common Mistakes Gardeners Make When Pruning Hydrangeas—and How to Avoid Them

Even with the best intentions, it’s easy to make mistakes when pruning hydrangeas. A snip in the wrong place or at the wrong time can mean fewer blooms or a plant struggling to recover. Let’s tackle some of the most common errors and how to steer clear of them, so your hydrangeas thrive year after year.

Step 2: Choose Pollinator-Friendly Plants

Variety is key. Aim for a mix of native plants that bloom from early spring through late fall. This keeps food available all season long. Include flowers in a range of shapes, sizes, and colors to appeal to different kinds of pollinators, like bees, butterflies, moths, hummingbirds, and more.

Focus on native species whenever possible. Native plants are adapted to local conditions and provide the exact resources that native pollinators, especially specialist bees, rely on. Some great choices for Zone 5 include Purple Coneflower, Bee Balm, and Black-Eyed Susan (more on these later in our plant list!).

Pro tip: Plant in clusters or drifts. A group of 3–5 of the same plant will catch more attention than scattered singles and make for easier foraging.

Step 3: Prepare Your Soil Naturally

Good soil means healthier plants and stronger blooms. Start by clearing out any existing sod, weeds, or invasive plants. Then loosen the top 6–12 inches of soil using a garden fork or spade.

If you can, skip synthetic fertilizers and instead amend with compost or well-rotted leaf mulch. This improves soil structure, boosts nutrients naturally, and encourages beneficial microbes and insects. Also, avoid tilling deeply, it can disrupt soil health and disturb ground-nesting bees.

Step 4: Plant with a Purpose

When you’re ready to plant, think layers and variety. Include tall plants, medium-height bloomers, and low-growing ground covers to create visual interest and shelter for insects. Keep water needs in mind, grouping plants with similar moisture preferences together.

Leave some open ground, too. Many native bees nest right in the soil. If your space allows, you can also include small logs, brush piles, or a patch of bare sandy soil as nesting habitat.

Spacing matters: give your plants room to grow to their mature size and avoid overcrowding, which can reduce airflow and invite disease.

Step 5: Say No to Chemicals

Skip the pesticides, herbicides, and synthetic fertilizers. These products often harm pollinators directly or reduce the number of insects they rely on for food.

If pests become a problem, try organic solutions like neem oil, insecticidal soap, or companion planting before reaching for anything stronger. Healthy, diverse gardens tend to attract natural predators that keep pests in check, so patience and balance go a long way.

Step 6: Provide Water and Shelter

Like all creatures, pollinators need water to survive. A shallow dish with a few stones for landing spots works great. Birdbaths or rainwater catch basins also help. Just be sure to clean them regularly to prevent mosquitoes.

Shelter is just as important. Native bees often nest in hollow stems, dead wood, or bare soil, while butterflies may seek cover under leaves or along fence lines. Avoid too much cleanup in fall; leaving some plant stalks and leaf litter in place can protect overwintering insects.

Step 7: Let Nature Lead the Way

Pollinator gardens don’t have to be flawless. The goal is to create a space where nature feels welcome and pollinators can thrive, not a manicured landscape that looks the same year-round.

Observe what’s working and what’s not. Some plants might self-seed or shift over time. Let them. Watch which flowers attract the most activity and consider planting more of those. Resist the urge to over-tidy or control everything. In this garden, wild is wonderful.

Bonus: Top Pollinator Plants for Zone 5 Gardens

Choosing the right plants is one of the best ways to bring your pollinator garden to life. These three native favorites are reliable bloomers, loved by pollinators, and well-suited to our climate here in northern Illinois. Plus, they’re available right here at Platt Hill Nursery.

Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

With its bold, daisy-like flowers and long bloom time, Purple Coneflower is a magnet for bees, butterflies, and even goldfinches that snack on the seeds in late summer. This hardy perennial thrives in full sun and tolerates a wide range of soils, including drought conditions once established. Its sturdy stems and vibrant pink-purple petals make it a striking centerpiece in any garden bed.

Bee Balm (Monarda)

Bee Balm brings energy and color to the garden with showy blooms in reds, pinks, and purples. It’s a favorite of hummingbirds and butterflies, and bees flock to its nectar-rich flowers. This plant prefers moist, well-drained soil and a sunny location, though it can handle a bit of afternoon shade. Bonus: it has a minty fragrance and can help deter some pests naturally.

Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia)

This cheerful classic lights up the garden with bright yellow petals and dark brown centers. Black-Eyed Susans bloom from midsummer into fall, offering consistent nectar and pollen when other flowers are fading. They’re a hit with bees and butterflies, and their tough, low-maintenance nature makes them a perfect pick for beginner gardeners.

Final Tips for a Thriving Pollinator Garden

Pollinator gardens grow best when you let nature take the lead, but a few thoughtful touches will help yours truly flourish:

Mix in all bloom seasons: Aim for early spring, mid-summer, and late-fall flowers to keep food available all season long.
Deadhead wisely: Removing spent blooms can encourage more flowering, but be sure to leave some at the end of the season for seed-eating birds.
Leave the leaves: In fall, skip the full cleanup. Leaf litter and plant stems provide shelter for overwintering pollinators.
Skip the mulch overload: Use mulch sparingly, especially around ground-nesting bees. Bare soil patches are helpful!
Keep learning: Every season is a chance to watch, learn, and adapt. Pollinators will show you what they love. You just have to pay attention outside your windows!

Building a pollinator garden is one of the most rewarding ways to connect with nature, boost local biodiversity, and bring color and life to your landscape. It’s good for the planet and great for the soul.

Ready to get started? Visit Platt Hill Nursery in Bloomingdale or Carpentersville, or shop online to find the native plants, pollinator favorites, and gardening advice you need to grow something amazing. We’re here to help you every step of the way.

The post How to Start a Pollinator Garden appeared first on Platt Hill Nursery.

Reaching New Heights: A Guide to Growing Climbing Roses

Platt Hill Nursery — Mon, 09 Jun 2025 23:03:07 +0000

When it comes to adding romance, drama, and vertical beauty to a garden, climbing roses are a timeless choice. With their arching canes and generous blooms, they bring old-world charm to fences, trellises, arbors, and walls. But while their impact is grand, growing climbing roses is surprisingly manageable—even for gardeners who are new to roses.

In this guide, we’ll explore what makes climbing roses special, how to choose the right variety, and the best practices for planting, training, and maintaining them so they flourish for years to come.

What Are Climbing Roses?

Climbing roses are not a distinct botanical group but rather a category of rose plants with long, flexible canes that can be trained to grow vertically. Unlike true vines (like clematis or morning glories), climbing roses don’t naturally twine or cling. Instead, they need support and guidance to “climb” using structures like trellises, obelisks, pergolas, and walls.

There are two main types:

Large-flowered climbers, which tend to bloom in flushes throughout the season
Ramblers, which produce a profusion of smaller flowers, usually once per year, and are often more vigorous

Why Gardeners Love Climbing Roses

Climbing roses bring a unique design element to gardens. They can:

Soften the hard lines of fences and buildings
Create living “walls” or privacy screens
Frame entryways and windows with lush, fragrant blooms
Add vertical interest in small gardens where space is limited

Many varieties are fragrant and come in a range of colors—from classic reds and romantic pinks to creamy whites and even yellows and apricots.

Choosing the Right Climbing Rose

When selecting a climbing rose, consider the following:

Bloom Time:
Some climbing roses bloom once a year (typically in early summer), while others are repeat bloomersthat flower throughout the season. If you want consistent color, go for repeat-flowering varieties like ‘Tropical Lightning’ ‘New Dawn,’ or ‘Blaze.’
Growth Habit:
Check the mature height and width. Some climbers can reach 15 feet or more, while others are better suited to compact spaces. Ramblers tend to be more vigorous and may need more room to spread.
Climate Tolerance:
Choose varieties suited to your USDA Hardiness Zone. Some, like ‘William Baffin,’ are extremely cold-hardy, while others prefer milder climates.
Disease Resistance:
Look for roses labeled as resistant to common problems like black spot or powdery mildew—especially important for warm, humid areas.

Planting Climbing Roses

Plant your climbing rose in full sun (at least 6–8 hours daily), in well-draining soil rich in organic matter.

Planting Tips:

Dig a hole twice as wide and as deep as the root ball.
Amend the soil with compost or well-rotted manure.
Space plants 3 to 4 feet apart to allow for airflow.
Position the rose about 12 inches away from its support structure to encourage airflow and ease of training.

Water deeply after planting and keep the soil evenly moist (but not soggy) during the establishment period.

Training and Supporting Climbing Roses

Because climbing roses don’t cling, they need to be tied or woven through their support as they grow.

Key Tips:

Use soft plant ties or green vinyl stretch tie to secure canes loosely to structures.
Train laterals (side shoots) horizontally—this encourages more flowering rather than just height.
Start training when the plant is young and flexible for best results.

Popular supports include:

Trellises and obelisks
Arches and pergolas
Fences and arbors
Masonry walls (use rose training wires or wall anchors)

Pruning Climbing Roses

Regular pruning keeps climbing roses healthy and blooming.

Basic Guidelines:

Prune in late winter or early spring before new growth begins.
Remove dead, damaged, or crossing canes.
For repeat bloomers, prune spent flowers throughout the season to encourage new buds.
Keep older, woody canes if they’re productive, but consider removing one or two every few years to make room for younger canes.

Ramblers that bloom once a year should be pruned right after flowering in mid- to late summer.

Fertilizing and Feeding

Feed climbing roses with a balanced rose fertilizer in early spring, just as new growth appears. Reapply mid-season to encourage repeat blooming. Supplementing with compost or fish emulsion can improve soil health and boost blooms.

Common Challenges and Solutions

Black spot or mildew? Improve air circulation and choose resistant varieties.
Lack of blooms? Check for too much nitrogen (which boosts leaves, not flowers) or prune more strategically.
Sparse growth? Make sure it’s getting enough sun and water consistently.

Final Thoughts

Climbing roses add romance and vertical flair to almost any garden. With the right selection, support, and care, they’ll reward you year after year with cascading blooms and head-turning beauty. Whether you’re framing a garden gate or transforming a blank wall, climbing roses are the perfect way to elevate your garden—literally and visually.

The post Reaching New Heights: A Guide to Growing Climbing Roses appeared first on Platt Hill Nursery.

Perennials vs. Annuals: Which Are Best for Your Garden?

Platt Hill Nursery — Fri, 09 May 2025 20:59:36 +0000

Choosing between annuals and perennials comes down to more than just plant preferences, it shapes how your garden grows, evolves, and flourishes through the seasons. Picture bold, bright blooms popping up all summer, only to say goodbye come fall. Now imagine another space where color returns every year, steadily growing stronger over time.

These differences affect everything from your planting schedule to your garden’s long-term character. Some gardeners crave fresh changes and seasonal splashes of color, while others prefer the reliability of plants that come back stronger each spring. There’s no one-size-fits-all answer, but understanding how each option fits your gardening style can help you grow something truly rewarding.

Perennials vs. Annuals – What’s the Difference?

Every garden benefits from a good understanding of plant life cycles. At the core of most garden planning are perennials and annuals; two categories that influence how and when your garden blooms, how much maintenance it needs, and what kind of impact you can expect across the seasons. Some plants return each year on their own, while others grow quickly, flower beautifully, and fade out when the season ends.

The choice between the two often comes down to how much change you like, how much time you want to spend replanting, and what kind of visual interest you’re aiming for. Some people like the ease of having familiar plants reappear each spring. Others enjoy picking new favorites every year for fresh pops of color. Understanding how these two plant types work will help you make smarter decisions when it’s time to fill out your garden beds or refresh your containers.

Perennials

Perennials are long-lasting plants that grow back on their own each year. Once planted, they develop a strong root system that survives through winter and sends up new growth each spring. In northern Illinois, where winters can be harsh, cold-hardy perennials like daylilies, hostas, and black-eyed Susans are especially valuable. After a few seasons, many perennials even begin to spread or fill out, giving your garden a fuller, more established look without having to start from scratch each spring.

Their bloom time might not last all season, but the payoff is a lower-maintenance garden over the long run. Many perennials also serve as anchors in garden beds, offering dependable color and form that you can build around with other seasonal plants.

Annuals

Annuals grow fast, flower heavily, and wrap up their life cycle in one growing season. You plant them in spring, they bloom steadily through summer, and once fall frost sets in, they’re done. Because they don’t need to store energy for future seasons, they tend to produce more flowers in a shorter span.

Common favorites like petunias, marigolds, impatiens, and zinnias are easy to plant and offer big color impact. They’re perfect for hanging baskets, containers, and areas where you want bright, changing displays from year to year.

Benefits of Planting Perennials

Planting perennials is a smart way to build a garden that improves over time. These plants become more resilient as they mature, often requiring less attention and fewer resources than annuals once they’ve settled in. Instead of needing to replant every spring, you get the reward of watching your garden return naturally, saving both time and money in the long run.

One of the biggest perks of perennials is their ability to create a consistent, reliable framework in your yard. They help define space and give the garden a sense of rhythm and predictability. Many varieties also attract pollinators like bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, especially native perennials that evolved alongside local wildlife. That means your garden isn’t just more beautiful; it becomes more alive, season after season.

Over time, mature perennials often grow fuller, producing more blooms and, in some cases, new offshoots you can divide and plant elsewhere. This natural expansion lets you multiply your plantings without needing to buy more each year. For gardeners on a budget or anyone looking to stretch the value of each plant, this is a major win.

Perennials also tend to be more drought-tolerant once established, thanks to their deeper root systems. That’s especially useful in the hot, dry stretches of Illinois summer, when regular watering becomes more of a chore. A well-chosen mix of perennials can help keep your garden thriving through challenging weather with less effort on your part.

Seasonal interest is another big bonus. While individual plants may not bloom all season, choosing a variety of early, mid, and late bloomers can give you color and texture from spring through fall. You’ll also find a wide range of foliage types, from the bold leaves of hostas to the fine textures of ornamental grasses, giving your beds visual depth even when flowers aren’t in bloom.

For gardeners who like a steady rhythm and long-term payoffs, perennials offer lasting beauty, reduced upkeep, and a strong foundation that only gets better with time.

Benefits of Planting Annuals

Annuals offer unmatched flexibility and creative freedom for gardeners who like to switch things up. Every growing season is a fresh start, which makes them perfect for experimenting with new color palettes, flower combinations, and plant placements. Want a red-and-yellow combo one year and a cool blue-and-white scheme the next? Annuals let you change your entire garden’s look without being locked into long-term commitments.

Another standout feature of annuals is how quickly they take off. Many varieties go from seed or starter plant to full bloom in just a few weeks. That quick turnaround is great for filling in gaps or boosting curb appeal right before a big summer gathering. They’re a reliable way to get fast results, especially if a perennial bed needs a little extra punch while the slower growers catch up.

For gardeners working in smaller spaces, like patios, balconies, or even window boxes, annuals are often the go-to. Their shallow root systems make them especially well-suited to containers, where they can thrive in tight quarters and still produce a lush, full appearance. Hanging baskets, planter boxes, and decorative pots all benefit from their vigorous growth and dense blooms.

Annuals also make excellent fillers and accents. They can be tucked between shrubs, used to edge a walkway, or planted in mass for a bold, colorful effect. Since they’re short-term guests, there’s no worry about them outgrowing their spot or disrupting your garden’s long-term plan.

Many annuals bloom right up until frost, keeping beds vibrant into late fall, long after some perennials have faded. This extended performance makes them an excellent way to stretch the garden’s visual appeal deeper into the season.

And for anyone new to gardening, annuals are incredibly beginner-friendly. They’re generally low-cost, easy to find, and forgiving to work with. Success comes quickly, which makes them a great choice for kids, new homeowners, or anyone trying their hand at gardening for the first time.

Fast-growing, full of color, and refreshingly noncommittal, annuals are a go-to option for anyone looking to create a high-impact garden in a single season.

How to Choose What’s Best for Your Garden

Deciding between annuals and perennials really comes down to how you like to garden and what you want your space to do for you. If you’re looking for immediate, vibrant color and the freedom to switch things up each year, annuals are a perfect match. They bring bold energy to containers, patios, and high-traffic areas that need quick visual impact. On the other hand, if you’re after long-term structure, lower yearly upkeep, and a garden that gets stronger over time, perennials are the way to go.

Of course, you don’t have to choose just one. Many of the most beautiful and successful gardens combine both types. Perennials can provide the backbone (steady, reliable, and time-tested) while annuals fill in the blanks (add seasonal drama, or highlight a particular color scheme). This mix keeps things fresh without sacrificing the dependable charm that comes from plants returning year after year.

Take a look at your space. How much sun does it get? How much time do you want to spend planting each spring? Do you want instant results, or are you willing to wait a year or two for a bigger payoff? Your answers will help point you toward the right blend of plants for your needs.

And if you’re not quite sure where to start, or if you’re ready to start digging, stop by Platt Hill Nursery in Bloomingdale or Carpentersville. Our garden experts are here to help you pick the best plants for your space, your lifestyle, and your vision. Whether you’re planting a perennial bed to bloom for years to come or loading up on cheerful annuals for a sunny front step, we’ve got the selection, know-how, and friendly advice to make your garden a true standout.

Explore our Annuals Collection or browse our Perennials Collection online, then swing by the store to see what’s in bloom. Your perfect garden is just a few plants away.

The post Perennials vs. Annuals: Which Are Best for Your Garden? appeared first on Platt Hill Nursery.

What Are Lichens? Understanding the Friendly Growth on Your Trees

Platt Hill Nursery — Fri, 25 Apr 2025 15:53:58 +0000

If you’ve noticed crusty, leafy, or even beard-like growths on your trees and shrubs, you might have wondered if they’re harmful — perhaps a type of fungus or mold. The good news? These curious growths, known as lichens, are not harmful to your trees. In fact, they’re a fascinating and entirely natural part of the ecosystem, and understanding them can help you better care for your garden and landscape.

Lichens Are Not Fungi or Mold

Although they may resemble fungi at first glance, lichens are not fungi, mold, or a disease. Instead, a lichen is a symbiotic partnership between a fungus and a photosynthetic organism — usually a green alga or a cyanobacterium. Sometimes, both are present. These two (or sometimes three) organisms work together to form what we see as a single growth.

The fungus provides the structure and holds moisture.
The photosynthetic partner (alga or cyanobacterium) produces food via photosynthesis.

This partnership allows lichens to live in all kinds of places, including your tree bark. But here’s the key point: lichens do not feed on or harm trees. They use the bark only as a surface to grow on — not as a food source.

Common Misconceptions About Lichens

At our nursery, one of the most common questions we hear is: “Is that a fungus hurting my tree?” It’s a fair question — lichens can look unusual, and many people associate them with decay or disease. But lichens:

Do not penetrate the bark
Do not take nutrients from the tree
Do not cause decay

They are not parasitic, and their presence is not a sign that your tree is sick. In fact, they often grow on healthy trees, especially older ones with textured bark and good air circulation.

What Do Lichens Look Like?

Lichens come in many shapes and colors. You might see:

Crusty patches (crustose lichens)
Leafy, lobed structures (foliose lichens)
Hair-like or bushy growths (fruticose lichens)

They can be green, gray, yellow, blue, or even orange. This variety often leads to confusion with mold or mildew, but unlike those, lichens are not a sign of moisture problems or decay.

Why Do Lichens Grow on Trees?

Lichens grow where conditions are right — and that usually means a stable surface with enough light and moisture. Trees, especially those with rough bark and plenty of sunlight on their trunks and branches, provide ideal real estate. Factors that promote lichen growth include:

Clean air (lichens are sensitive to pollution)
Stable, undisturbed bark
Good light exposure

Ironically, the presence of lichens can be a sign of a healthy environment!

Are Lichens a Problem for My Garden?

No — in almost every case, lichens are harmless. They don’t affect the tree’s growth, bark, or leaves. However, they may become more noticeable if a tree is already under stress or in decline (for example, losing leaves or bark). In these cases, lichens might appear to spread more quickly simply because they have less competition for light and space — but they are not the cause of the problem.

If you’re concerned about your tree’s health, it’s a good idea to have it evaluated by an arborist or horticulturist. But rest assured: lichens alone are not a reason to worry.

Should I Remove Lichens?

Generally, there’s no need to remove lichens from your trees. They don’t harm the bark or hinder growth. Attempting to scrub or scrape them off can damage the tree’s protective outer layer. If lichens bother you for aesthetic reasons, you can try these gentle approaches:

Improve sunlight and airflow: Pruning nearby branches or thinning a canopy can reduce lichen growth by altering their preferred conditions.
Avoid unnecessary chemical sprays: Lichens are sensitive, and chemicals can do more harm than good.

But overall, we recommend leaving them be. They’re part of a healthy, living landscape.

A Natural Wonder in Your Backyard

Beyond being harmless, lichens are actually incredible organisms. They are some of the oldest and toughest life forms on Earth, capable of surviving in extreme environments — from mountaintops and deserts to city sidewalks. They:

Contribute to soil formation by slowly breaking down rock
Support biodiversity by offering habitat for small creatures
Help monitor air quality, since they absorb nutrients directly from the atmosphere

Scientists even study lichens for insights into environmental changes, climate shifts, and more. Having them on your trees can be a sign that your local ecosystem is thriving.

Final Thoughts: Appreciate, Don’t Panic

At our plant nursery, we believe in celebrating the many small wonders that nature brings to our gardens — and lichens are one of them. They may look unfamiliar or even worrisome at first, but now you know: lichens are not mold, not fungi, and not a threat to your trees.

Instead, they’re an example of how life finds a way to flourish in partnership. So the next time you spot a patch of lichen on your favorite tree, take a moment to appreciate this little marvel of nature. It’s been there quietly doing its thing — enriching your garden’s biodiversity, and asking nothing in return.

Have questions about your trees, shrubs, or anything else growing in your yard? Feel free to stop by or contact us — we’re always happy to help you grow with confidence!

The post What Are Lichens? Understanding the Friendly Growth on Your Trees appeared first on Platt Hill Nursery.

How Much Water Do Plants Need?

Platt Hill Nursery — Thu, 10 Apr 2025 15:55:19 +0000

Watering can be tricky. Too much, and your plants drown. Too little, and they dry out. The key is knowing when and how much to water so your plants stay happy and healthy. Every plant has its own needs, and factors like temperature, humidity, and soil type all make a difference. A sunny week with no rain? Your garden might need extra water. A cool, damp stretch? You can ease up. Once you learn what your plants prefer, watering becomes second nature, helping them thrive through every season.

How Do I Know When to Water?

The best way to tell if your plant needs water is to check the soil. Stick your finger about an inch deep; if it feels dry, grab your watering can. If it’s still damp, hold off and check again in a day or two. Some plants, like succulents, thrive when their soil dries out completely between waterings, while moisture-loving plants, like basil, prefer consistently damp (but not soggy) soil.

Your plant’s appearance can also tell you a lot. Wilting leaves, crispy edges, or stunted growth usually mean it’s thirsty. But don’t assume every droopy leaf is a cry for water. Yellowing leaves, mushy stems, or a funky smell from the soil are signs of overwatering. If in doubt, check the roots. Healthy roots are firm and white, while overwatered ones turn brown and mushy.

How Much Water Should I Apply?

A deep soak is always better than a quick splash. Watering should reach the roots, not just wet the top layer of soil. For houseplants, keep watering until you see excess water draining from the bottom of the pot; this helps flush out built-up salts and keeps roots hydrated.

Vegetables typically need about an inch of water per week, whether from rainfall or your hose. In hotter weather, they may need even more, especially if the soil dries out quickly.

Container plants dry out faster than garden beds, so they often need water more frequently. The best time to water is early morning or late afternoon, giving plants a chance to absorb moisture before the sun evaporates it. Avoid watering in the evening, as sitting water can lead to fungal issues.

Watering Too Frequently vs. Adding Too Much Water at One Time

Watering too often keeps the soil constantly wet, which can suffocate roots and lead to rot. Most plants need a drying-out period between waterings to allow roots to breathe. Letting the top layer of soil dry before watering again helps prevent these issues.

On the other hand, dumping too much water at once can overwhelm the soil, especially if drainage is poor. Heavy clay soil holds onto moisture longer, while sandy soil drains too quickly. Understanding your soil type helps you find the right balance. Watering deeply but not so much that roots sit in standing water. If water pools on the surface instead of soaking in, it’s time to improve drainage or space out waterings.

Is It Possible to Overwater?

Absolutely. In fact, overwatering is one of the most common reasons plants struggle. The tricky part? Overwatered plants often show the same droopy, yellowing leaves as thirsty ones. The key difference is texture, overwatered plants feel soft and mushy, while underwatered plants are dry and brittle.

If you’re unsure, check the roots. Healthy roots are firm and white, while waterlogged roots turn brown, mushy, and may even have a bad smell. If your plant is struggling, let the soil dry out before watering again and make sure excess water can drain properly.

Houseplant Watering Tips

How Much Water Do Aloe Plants Need?

Aloe prefers dry conditions and doesn’t like soggy roots. Water deeply but only when the soil is completely dry, usually every two to three weeks.

How Much Water Do Snake Plants Need?

Snake plants thrive on neglect and don’t need much attention. Water once every two to four weeks, letting the soil dry completely between waterings.

How Much Water Do Spider Plants Need?

Spider plants like evenly moist soil and frequent hydration. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry, about once a week for best growth.

How Much Water Do Jade Plants Need?

Jade plants store water in their leaves, making them drought-resistant. Water every two to three weeks, making sure the soil fully dries out between waterings.

How Much Water Do Poinsettia Plants Need?

Poinsettias like slightly moist soil and proper drainage. Water when the top inch feels dry, usually once a week. Avoid letting them sit in standing water.

Vegetable Watering Tips

How Much Water Do Tomato Plants Need?

Tomatoes need deep and regular watering. We recommend about 1 to 2 inches per week for healthy roots. Water at the base to keep leaves dry and prevent disease from spreading.

How Much Water Do Cucumber Plants Need?

Cucumbers love moisture and need consistent hydration. Give them about 1 inch of water per week, more during hot weather or dry spells.

How Much Water Do Potato Plants Need?

Potatoes prefer consistent moisture to develop properly. Water 1 to 2 inches per week, especially when forming tubers underground.

How Much Water Do Pepper Plants Need?

Peppers need about an inch of water per week but don’t like soggy roots. Let the soil dry slightly between waterings.

How Much Water Do Bell Pepper Plants Need?

Like other peppers, bell peppers need about an inch of water per week. Adjust for heat and rainfall to keep the plants healthy and strong.

How Much Water Do Jalapeño Plants Need?

Jalapeños need similar care to bell peppers and chilies. Water about an inch per week, making sure there is good drainage to prevent rot.

How Much Water Do Onion Plants Need?

Onions need steady moisture for proper bulb formation. Water around 1 inch per week, making sure the water soaks deep into the soil.

How Much Water Do Zucchini Plants Need?

Zucchini needs consistent watering, about 1 to 2 inches per week. Avoid getting the leaves wet to prevent fungal disease or mildew.

How Much Water Do Lettuce Plants Need?

Lettuce needs frequent watering, as dry soil can cause bitterness. Keep the soil moist but not soggy, about 1 inch per week is ideal.

How Much Water Do Pumpkin Plants Need?

Pumpkins are thirsty plants and need a lot of water. Water deeply, about 1 to 2 inches per week, especially during fruit development for larger pumpkins.

How Much Water Do Basil Plants Need?

Basil likes evenly moist soil and regular watering. Water when the top inch dries out, usually every few days in hot weather or direct sunlight.

How Much Water Do Garlic Plants Need?

Garlic needs about an inch of water per week for steady growth. Reduce watering when bulbs start maturing to avoid rot or disease.

How Much Water Do Pea Plants Need?

Peas need steady moisture, especially during pod production. Water about 1 inch per week, ensuring deep soaking for strong roots.

How Much Water Do Squash Plants Need?

Squash, like zucchini, needs consistent moisture to thrive. Provide 1 to 2 inches per week, keeping the roots well-hydrated for strong growth.

How Much Water Do Asparagus Plants Need?

Asparagus needs about an inch of water per week for strong spears. Increase watering during the first year for better establishment and root growth.

How Much Water Do Cabbage Plants Need?

Cabbage needs plenty of water to form solid heads. Provide about 1 to 1.5 inches per week, keeping the soil moist but never overly soaked.

How Much Water Do Corn Plants Need?

Corn needs deep watering, around 1 to 2 inches per week for tall stalks. Provide extra water when tasseling and forming ears for the best yield.

Visit Platt Hill Nursery for More Plant Care Tips!

Keeping your plants healthy starts with the right watering routine, but every plant has its own needs. If you’re unsure how often to water or what works best for your specific plants, visit Platt Hill Nursery! Our team of experts is here to answer your questions and help you create the perfect care routine, whether you’re growing houseplants, vegetables, or a backyard full of blooms.

We carry everything you need to keep your plants thriving, from high-quality soil and fertilizers to decorative pots and watering tools. Stop by our Bloomingdale or Carpentersville locations to explore our selection and get personalized advice. Your plants will thank you!

The post How Much Water Do Plants Need? appeared first on Platt Hill Nursery.

How to Grow Gorgeous Blue Hydrangeas in Your Garden

Platt Hill Nursery — Thu, 13 Mar 2025 13:40:21 +0000

How to Grow Gorgeous Blue Hydrangeas in Your Garden

Few flowers can match the charm of blue hydrangeas. Their vivid, almost ethereal blooms transform any outdoor space into a peaceful retreat. But achieving those coveted blue hues takes a little extra care and attention. From soil chemistry to sunlight needs, the right steps will make all the difference.

Discover the secrets to growing breathtaking blue hydrangeas and keeping them healthy and vibrant season after season.

What Makes Hydrangeas Blue?

The striking blue color of hydrangeas isn’t determined by the plant alone but by the chemistry of your soil—specifically, its pH level and aluminum content. Hydrangeas absorb aluminum from the soil, which reacts with the flower pigments to create those signature blue tones.

For hydrangeas to produce blue blooms, your soil needs to be acidic, with a pH between 5.2 and 5.5. In neutral or alkaline soil, the flowers are more likely to turn pink or sometimes purple. Even hydrangea varieties known for their blue flowers will only reach their full potential with the right soil conditions.

How to Adjust the pH of Your Soil

If your hydrangeas are blooming pink or purple, your soil likely isn’t acidic enough for blue flowers. Adjusting the pH is simple with the right approach and materials.

Start with a Soil Test: A soil test is essential to identify your starting pH. You can pick up an affordable home test kit or consult with local extension services for a professional analysis.
Use the Right Amendments: To create an acidic environment, add Espoma Soil Acidifier, garden sulfur, or aluminum sulfate to your soil. Espoma Soil Acidifier is a popular and easy-to-use option, specially formulated to lower soil pH and promote deep blue hydrangea blooms. Aluminum sulfate is another great choice, as it quickly lowers pH while also increasing the aluminum your hydrangeas need for blue flowers. Be sure to follow the product’s application instructions carefully to avoid overdoing it.
Incorporate Organic Materials: Organic options like composted pine needles or shredded oak leaves can naturally lower pH over time. These options are slower to take effect but are an eco-friendly way to enhance your soil. Mulching with materials like pine bark or pine straw not only acidifies the soil over time but also helps retain moisture, which is essential for hydrangeas.
Stay Consistent: Soil pH tends to shift over time due to rainfall, fertilization, or other factors. To maintain those vibrant blue hues, retest your soil annually and reapply amendments as needed.

Common Questions About Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas are beloved for their beauty and versatility, but they often leave gardeners with a lot of questions.

Which Hydrangeas Can Change to Blue?

Not all hydrangeas can turn blue. The ability to change color is primarily a trait of bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) and some mountain hydrangeas (Hydrangea serrata). These varieties respond to soil pH and aluminum content, producing blue, pink, or even purple flowers depending on the conditions. White hydrangeas, like panicle and smooth varieties, do not change color regardless of soil adjustments.

Do Coffee Grounds Really Turn Hydrangeas Blue?

Coffee grounds are often recommended for acidifying soil, but their effect is minimal. While they may slightly lower pH over time, you’ll need larger quantities or more targeted amendments, like aluminum sulfate or sulfur, to make a noticeable difference. Coffee grounds are better used as part of a general compost mix for improving soil health.

Where Is the Best Place to Plant a Blue Hydrangea?

Blue hydrangeas thrive in locations with morning sun and afternoon shade. This balance ensures they get enough light for healthy blooms without wilting under the intense heat of the midday sun.

It’s also a good idea to shield hydrangeas from strong winds, as their large, delicate blooms can be damaged by harsh gusts. Consider planting near a fence, wall, or shrubs that offer natural protection. Be sure to plant them in well-draining soil to prevent root rot, but keep the ground consistently moist.

Can You Grow Hydrangeas in Pots?

Yes, hydrangeas can grow beautifully in pots, which makes it easier to control soil conditions. Choose a large container with drainage holes and use an acidic, well-draining potting mix. Potted hydrangeas may require more frequent watering and feeding but are a great option for patios or smaller spaces.

Because containers dry out faster than garden beds, you may need to water your potted hydrangeas daily during the hottest parts of summer to keep the soil evenly moist. However, keep in mind that hydrangeas grown in pots or containers will not survive Chicago winters outdoors. Be sure to plant your hydrangea in the ground before winter sets in to protect it from freezing temperatures.

Can Hydrangeas Grow in Full Sun?

Hydrangeas can tolerate full sun in cooler climates, but in Chicagoland’s hot summers, they risk drying out or developing scorched leaves. If you must plant in a sunny location, make sure the soil stays moist, and consider using mulch to retain moisture.

Can Hydrangeas Grow in the Shade?

Yes, many hydrangeas adapt well to partial shade. However, too much shade may reduce blooming. For blue hydrangeas, aim for a spot with dappled sunlight or filtered shade to strike the right balance between light and protection.

Find Your Hydrangeas at Platt Hill Nursery!

Ready to grow the stunning blue hydrangeas you’ve been dreaming of? At Platt Hill Nursery, we have everything you need to make it happen—from beautiful bigleaf hydrangeas to the soil amendments and fertilizers that help them thrive.

Not sure where to start? Our knowledgeable team is here to help you choose the perfect variety for your garden and provide expert advice on soil preparation, planting, and care. Whether you’re refreshing your backyard or creating a new container garden, you’ll find the inspiration and support you need at Platt Hill Nursery.

Visit us in Bloomingdale or Carpentersville to explore our wide selection of hydrangeas and other garden favorites. Let’s grow something beautiful together!

The post How to Grow Gorgeous Blue Hydrangeas in Your Garden appeared first on Platt Hill Nursery.

Comparing 18 Types of Hydrangea Species

Platt Hill Nursery — Wed, 12 Feb 2025 17:27:53 +0000

Hydrangeas are beloved for their lush blooms and versatility, making them a favorite in gardens everywhere. With so many types to choose from, each offering unique colors, shapes, and growing habits, it’s easy to find the perfect match for your outdoor space. Whether you’re drawn to dramatic panicles, delicate lacecaps, or classic mopheads, there’s a hydrangea to suit every style and setting.

Quick Fire Fab Hydrangea

Quick Fire Fab Hydrangea is an early-blooming panicle variety known for its stunning flower clusters that transition from white to shades of pink and red as the season progresses. It’s a low-maintenance option that thrives in full sun to partial shade and prefers well-drained soil. This variety is drought-tolerant once established and blooms on new wood, so pruning in late winter or early spring encourages fresh growth. Perfect for adding vibrant color to borders or mixed beds.

Explore Quick Fire Fab Hydrangeas

Wedding Gown Hydrangea

The Wedding Gown Hydrangea is a stunning double-flowered lacecap variety that produces elegant, pure white blooms throughout the season. This compact reblooming hydrangea thrives in partial shade and evenly moist, well-drained soil. With flowers that emerge on both old and new wood, it offers reliable blooms year after year. Its graceful, layered petals create a timeless, classic look, making it a perfect choice for garden borders, foundation plantings, or containers.

Explore Wedding Gown Hydrangeas

Vanilla Strawberry Hydrangea Shrub

Vanilla Strawberry Hydrangea is a breathtaking panicle variety that starts with creamy white blooms that gradually blush to pink and deep red as they mature. This easy-to-grow shrub thrives in full sun to partial shade and well-drained soil. Reaching up to six feet tall, it’s perfect for creating a dramatic focal point or a colorful hedge. Prune in late winter or early spring to encourage vigorous growth and an abundance of flowers.

Explore Vanilla Strawberry Hydrangea Shrubs

Quick Fire Hydrangea

The Quick Fire Hydrangea is celebrated for its early bloom time and spectacular color transitions. Its conical flower clusters shift from white to pink and deep rose as the summer progresses. This hardy panicle hydrangea thrives in full sun to partial shade and is highly tolerant of various soil types. Blooming on new wood, it’s easy to care for with pruning in late winter or early spring. Its versatility makes it a standout in gardens or large containers.

Explore Quick Fire Hydrangeas

Little Quick Fire Hydrangea

Little Quick Fire Hydrangea is a compact version of the classic Quick Fire, reaching only three to five feet tall. Its early-blooming, cone-shaped flowers transition from white to pink and deep red, adding dynamic color to smaller spaces. This low-maintenance shrub thrives in full sun to partial shade and well-drained soil. Prune in early spring for best results. It’s perfect for foundation plantings, mixed borders, or patio containers.

Explore Little Quick Fire Hydrangeas

Tiny Quick Fire Hydrangea

Tiny Quick Fire Hydrangea also offers all the beauty of the classic Quick Fire in an incredibly petite package. Growing to just three feet tall, it’s ideal for smaller spaces, borders, or patio containers. This dwarf panicle hydrangea produces abundant white flowers that gradually turn pink. It thrives in full sun to partial shade and requires little maintenance beyond annual pruning in late winter. Its compact size makes it a popular choice for urban gardeners.

Explore Tiny Quick Fire Hydrangeas

Puffer Fish Hydrangea

Puffer Fish Hydrangea is a unique, compact variety known for its dense, double blooms that create a full, “puffy” appearance. The flowers start white and develop green accents as they age, adding textural interest to the landscape. It thrives in full sun to partial shade and moist, well-drained soil. Reaching about three feet tall, this hydrangea is perfect for small gardens or containers. Prune lightly in spring to maintain its shape and promote new growth.

Explore Puffer Fish Hydrangeas

Endless Summer Hydrangea

Endless Summer Hydrangea is famous for its continuous blooms that appear on both old and new wood. Its large, mophead flowers range from pink to blue, depending on soil pH. This variety prefers partial shade and rich, well-drained soil. With its reliable reblooming nature, it’s a favorite for adding vibrant color to shady areas. Light pruning after the first bloom cycle can encourage even more flowers throughout the season.

Explore Endless Summer Hydrangeas

Summer Crush Hydrangea

Summer Crush Hydrangea features striking raspberry-red or neon purple mophead blooms that steal the show. This compact variety thrives in partial shade and well-drained, consistently moist soil. Reaching a height of about three feet, it’s perfect for small spaces, foundation plantings, or containers. As a rebloomer, it flowers on both old and new wood, delivering long-lasting color.

Explore Summer Crush Hydrangeas

Limelight Hydrangea Tree

The Limelight Hydrangea Tree is a stunning focal point for any garden, offering large lime-green panicles that fade to creamy white and pink. This hardy tree-form hydrangea thrives in full sun to partial shade and adapts well to various soil types. Its blooms appear on new wood, so pruning in late winter promotes fresh flowers. Perfect for formal landscapes or as a standalone accent, it provides year-round interest with its elegant structure.

Explore Limelight Hydrangea Hydrangeas

Little Lime Hydrangea

Little Lime Hydrangea offers the same gorgeous lime-green blooms as its larger counterpart but in a smaller size, growing just three to five feet tall. This hardy panicle hydrangea is perfect for gardens with limited space or container planting. It thrives in full sun to partial shade and blooms on new wood, making it easy to prune in late winter or early spring. The flowers transition to pink as they age, providing season-long beauty.

Explore Little Lime Hydrangeas

Bobo Hydrangea

Bobo Hydrangea is a compact, dwarf panicle hydrangea known for its prolific blooms. Its creamy white flowers cover the plant in midsummer, gradually fading to blush pink as the season progresses. Growing to just three feet tall, it’s ideal for borders, containers, or smaller garden spaces. This variety thrives in full sun to partial shade and well-drained soil. Prune in late winter or early spring to encourage vigorous growth and abundant flowers.

Explore Bobo Hydrangeas

Strawberry Sundae Hydrangea

Strawberry Sundae Hydrangea offers delightful blooms that start creamy white and transform into pink and deep red shades. This panicle variety reaches four to five feet tall, making it a striking addition to any garden. It thrives in full sun to partial shade and well-drained soil. Easy to care for, it blooms on new wood, so pruning in early spring ensures fresh growth. Use it as a focal point or plant in groupings for a lush display.

Explore Strawberry Sundae Hydrangeas

Fire Light Tidbit

Fire Light Tidbit is a dwarf hydrangea bursting with bold color. Its dense blooms start white and transition to vivid shades of red and pink. Reaching just two to three feet tall, it’s perfect for smaller gardens, borders, or containers. This hardy variety thrives in full sun to partial shade and blooms on new wood. Prune in early spring to maintain its shape and encourage vibrant flowers all season long.

Explore Fire Light Tidbit Hydrangeas

Invincibelle Limetta Hydrangea

Invincibelle Limetta Hydrangea is a compact smooth hydrangea with lime-green blooms that brighten shady spots. Its dense, rounded flowers remain vibrant throughout the season, eventually softening to cream. Growing two to three feet tall, it thrives in partial shade and well-drained soil. This low-maintenance shrub blooms on new wood, making pruning in early spring a breeze. It’s perfect for smaller landscapes or as a foundation planting.

Explore Invincibelle Limetta Hydrangeas

Bloomstruck Hydrangea

Bloomstruck Hydrangea is a showy, reblooming variety from the Endless Summer collection. Its large mophead flowers range from blue to pink (or blurple, for its bluish-purple tones) depending on soil pH and bloom from spring through fall. This hardy hydrangea thrives in partial shade and moist, well-drained soil. Its compact size makes it perfect for smaller gardens or containers. Prune lightly after the first bloom cycle to encourage additional flowers throughout the season.

Explore Bloomstruck Hydrangeas

Incrediball Hydrangea

Incrediball Hydrangea is known for its enormous, spherical blooms that start green and mature to bright white. This hardy smooth hydrangea grows four to five feet tall and thrives in full sun to partial shade. It blooms on new wood, making it easy to prune in early spring. Its sturdy stems ensure the massive flowers don’t droop, creating a stunning display in borders or as a hedge.

Explore Incrediball Hydrangeas

Annabelle Hydrangea

Annabelle Hydrangea, sometimes referred to as Snowballs, is a classic smooth hydrangea with large, snowball-like white flowers that bloom from midsummer to fall. These classic, fan favorites grow to about four to five feet tall, and it thrives in partial shade and moist, well-drained soil. This low-maintenance variety blooms on new wood, so pruning in late winter encourages abundant flowers. Annabelle’s lush, timeless appearance makes it a favorite for shady gardens and foundation plantings.

Explore Annabelle Hydrangeas

Find The Perfect Hydrangea at Platt Hill Nursery!

With so many stunning hydrangeas to choose from, there’s a perfect variety to suit every garden style and space. Whether you’re drawn to vibrant mopheads, delicate lacecaps, or dramatic panicles, hydrangeas bring lasting beauty and charm to your landscape. Ready to add one (or more!) of these showstoppers to your garden? Visit Platt Hill Nursery in Carpentersville or Bloomingdale! Our experts will help you select the ideal hydrangea and provide tips for keeping it healthy and thriving. Stop by today, or browse our selection online to get started!

The post Comparing 18 Types of Hydrangea Species appeared first on Platt Hill Nursery.

25 Best Pollinator Plants for Your Garden

Platt Hill Nursery — Wed, 09 Oct 2024 21:27:49 +0000

Pollinator plants attract a range of pollinators, but most especially bees! Chicago area bees are responsible for many of the flowers and foods that we eat. Did you know that 80 percent of the world’s flowering plants need a pollinator to reproduce, and about 30% of our food is created with the help of pollinators?

We need pollinators for everything from fruits and vegetables to nuts and spices. Filling your garden with pollinator plants can help ensure that your flower garden and vegetable garden will be a success. In this article, we’ll talk about the 25 best pollinator plants for your garden. We’ll discuss popular perennials as well as annuals that can help attract pollinators to your garden.

The Best Plants for a Pollinator Garden

1. Calamint

Calamintha nepeta, also known as lesser calamint, is a fantastic pollinator plant due to its abundant, long-lasting blooms. From summer to fall, it attracts bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects with its minty fragrance and nectar-rich flowers. Its compact size and easy care make it perfect for garden beds or borders. Plus, it’s drought-tolerant, making it a low-maintenance way to support local pollinators!

2. Basil

Basil is a fantastic pollinator! Once basil starts to produce large flowers, the leaves can become bitter or lose their flavor, but that doesn’t have to stop you from consuming basil. Basil flowers are edible, just like the leaves. Consider including basil flowers in your salads, but don’t forget to leave some buds in your garden to attract pollinators.

3. Bee Balm

Bee balm attracts a range of pollinators, not just bees! These funky, quirky flowers can attract butterflies and hummingbirds as well. Bee balm plants go by many names including horsemint, bergamot, and Oswego tea. In the past, bee balm has been used to treat bee stings (hence the common name bee balm). This plant is a prized garden perennial because it’s easy to grow and produces impressive flowers year-round.

4. Button Bush

Do you have uncommonly wet soil on your property? Want an unusual flowering plant for your home landscape? The button bush may be the perfect flower type for you. This distinctive shrub has spherical button-shaped flowers that attract pollinators. Button bush doesn’t grow well on dry soil, so this is a good option for the area around your dry creek bed.

5. Chokeberry

Chokeberry shrubs have ornamental qualities at various times throughout the year, including spring when they boast beautiful white flowers, and in fall, when they produce berries (either red or black). The berries are tart (but not poisonous), so birds tend not to eat them, and they remain on the bush for a long time, adding color to the landscape. Chokeberry can be used in canning for jams and jellies.

6. Cilantro

Cilantro makes a great addition to some dishes, but if you allow the plant to produce its beautiful white flowers, it will draw bees and other pollinators to your space. Cilantro grows best in full sun or light shade, with well-draining soil. It’s a small plant that can be grown on the edges of your garden to attract pollinators. If you like the herb, set aside some to be used in cooking.

7. Coreopsis (Tickseed)

Coreopsis is a member of the daisy family, producing long-lasting blossoms on long, slender stems. Coreopsis spreads naturally through seed and rhizomes, and is easy to care for, requiring watering throughout the summer and little else. Occasional deadheading will encourage this plant to produce flowers throughout the growing season. Coreopsis flowers come in a range of colors including yellow, red, white, and pink.

8. Cosmos

Cosmos are daisy-like flowers that come in a variety of colors including yellow and pink. This self-seeding plant comes back year after year and attracts butterflies. With long-lasting blossoms, cosmos add color and good cheer to your flower garden. Plant cosmos with a range of other daisy-like flowers including cone flowers or coreopsis, to create a prairie-like beauty for your landscape.

9. Dill

Dill produces bushy, edible plants that are a favorite of both pollinators and caterpillars. Bees and butterflies love its delicate yellow flowers, while caterpillars—especially swallowtails—enjoy munching on its leaves. To ensure enough for both you and the wildlife, consider planting a little extra! Dill grows best in well-drained, low-fertility soils with plenty of sun. Sow seeds continuously throughout the growing season for a steady harvest and pollinator activity.

10. Coneflower (Echinacea)

Coneflower has many excellent qualities that make it a long-standing staple of gardens throughout the Midwest. It produces long-lasting flowers that can be seen from early summer until fall. Once established, coneflower is resistant to drought. It tolerates a range of environments including full sun and partial shade, and it’s a perennial plant, so once it’s in place, you can enjoy it for years to come.

11. False Indigo

False indigo attracts hummingbirds to your garden, especially after a few seasons of good growth. In the first two seasons, false indigo does much of its developing beneath the ground. It’s only after these two seasons that your false indigo will start to show its most beautiful blooms. This shrub produces lovely flowers that will do more than attract hummingbirds – they’ll also catch your eye.

12. Ageratum (Floss Flower)

Floss flower is a tender annual that reseeds itself well, so planting it once will continue to produce flowers for a long time to come. Floss flower’s tufted blossoms can be scattered throughout your garden bed and will flower from late spring through fall. Plant floss flower for long-lasting color in your garden bed. Consider planting floss flower near yellow zinnia for a blast of yellow and purple color to attract pollinators of all types.

13. Goldenrod

Although sometimes dismissed as a weed, goldenrod is a North American perennial plant that has been used in the past for a variety of purposes including making tea and treating certain conditions. It is very attractive to pollinators. While goldenrod is sometimes blamed for allergies, it produces large clumps of pollen that does not carry on the wind. For most people, it is not an allergen.

14. Lavender

This drought-tolerant perennial shrub produces beautiful purple flowers that are both fragrant and beautiful when dried. Lavender plants last approximately 10 years and then need replacement. Cut lavender back to about 6 inches every few years to prevent it from getting scraggly. Lavender can be used in cooking, or you can dry lavender and place it in a vase in your home. Lavender is grown best in soils with poor fertility.

15. Lemon Balm

Lemon balm is a plant in the mint family which will produce attractive flowers if allowed. Lemon balm’s minty leaves have a distinctive lemon flavor. Once the plant has flowered, this flavor gets weaker. You can use lemon balm in your salads or fruit salads to add a zesty flavor, or allow it to produce blossoms to attract those pollinators like bees and butterflies.

16. Marigolds

Marigolds are a favorite annual plant that appears in flower beds throughout the Midwest. Favored for their easy growth and long-lasting blooms, marigolds are also great for repelling certain pests like deer, which find marigold blossoms to have an unpleasant odor. Marigolds come in a range of colors including yellow, orange, and red. The blossoms tend to get bigger and more beautiful as the summer goes on. Keep deadheading them to encourage blooming.

17. Milkweed

Common milkweed is a herbaceous wildflower that produces small flowers that grow in clusters. Milkweed grows up to 5 feet tall and needs full sun throughout the summer. Milkweed attracts all types of pollinators including butterflies and bees, and is also a larval host plant for monarch butterflies.

18. Peppermint or Spearmint

Peppermint and spearmint are excellent additions to any pollinator garden. Their small, fragrant flowers are magnets for bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects. These hardy, fast-growing herbs thrive in full to partial sun and well-drained soil. Be sure to plant them in containers or a designated area, as they can spread quickly. As a bonus, their leaves are great for culinary uses, making them a multi-purpose addition to your garden!

19. Sunflowers

This easy to grow flower is a self-seeding flower that attracts pollinators and then birds as their blossoms open and develop. Sunflowers are known for following the sun in its trajectory across the sky, and produce large, cheerful, shaggy blossoms that are a staple of late summer gardens.

20. Parsley

Parsley has good flavor and is easy to grow in an herb garden. If you grow more parsley than you need, allow it to flower to attract pollinators. Plus, parsley is a favorite food source for caterpillars, so planting a little extra can help support their growth. Parsley grows best from seeds planted in rich soil.

21. Summersweet

Summersweet is a flowering shrub that produces spears of flowers in July and August. Its fragrant scent is a joy for people and, once established, it can tolerate short periods of drought. Summersweet attracts pollinators of all types and when fall rolls around, the leaves turn a decorative yellow for lovely fall color.

22. Hydrangea

Hydrangeas are a favorite for traditional gardens, especially the paniculata types like Pinky Winky or Quickfire. These open panicle flowers attract pollinators like bees and butterflies while adding beautiful color to your landscape. With large clusters of white, pink, or soft red blooms, they brighten any garden. Hydrangea shrubs vary in size, so choose carefully to ensure they fit your space. Paniculata hydrangeas thrive in sun to partial shade.

23. Veronicas

This perennial plant produces charming purple flowers that attract pollinators. Although they can grow in partial shade areas, you’ll get the most flowers with limited water and full sun. Plant veronicas in places where it’s hard to get other flowers to grow, like narrow beds near pathways or spaces your sprinklers don’t quite reach.

24. Bluebeard

Bluebeard is a low-mounding shrub that produces fluffy, cloud-like flowers. This plant blooms in late summer and early fall, and attracts pollinators of all types. Too much fertilizer will produce lanky growth, so use fertilizer sparingly.

25. Zinnias

Zinnias are prolific bloomers and a favorite annual plant in many summer gardens. These colorful flowers come in different types including single, double, and semi-double, so you can choose the variety of zinnia that you prefer.

What is a Pollinator?

A pollinator is anything that helps disperse pollen throughout gardens. Pollinators help promote flowering and fruit production, and in many cases, are an essential part of the production cycle.

While there has been much talk in the news over the last several years about the decline of the European Honeybee, this is not a native bee. There are over 4,000 species of native bees in North America, and all of them are important to our food cycle.

What are Pollinator Plants?

Pollinator plants are plants that attract pollinators. Pollinator-friendly plants have sweet pollen that pollinators want for their food. There are a variety of blooming perennials that attract perennial pollinators. If you’re interested in buying plants for a pollinator garden, we can help.

What Attracts Pollinators to Plants and Flowers?

There are many visual cues you can use when trying to identify pollinators. Pollinators typically have showy blossoms and sepals. These plants often have blossoms in bright colors like red or purple. The best way to identify good pollinator plants or pollinator plants for bees is to ask the experts when you’re shopping at Platt Hill Nursery.

Find Your Pollinator Plants at Platt Hill Nursery!

Platt Hill Nursery carries a range of pollinator plants including the best pollinator plants for vegetable garden spaces. We sell zone 5 perennials and a range of products to make your perennial garden a success. To find the perennial or annual plants of your choice, search our plants on our website or contact the experts at Platt Hill Nursery directly.

The post 25 Best Pollinator Plants for Your Garden appeared first on Platt Hill Nursery.

When To Plant Spring Bulbs

Platt Hill Nursery — Tue, 07 May 2024 20:27:34 +0000

Some of the best flowers come from spring bulbs! Daffodils, tulips, crocuses, hyacinths, and alliums are examples of the types of flowers that are produced from bulbs.

Timing is important when it comes to planting. Choosing the wrong time could lead to bulb failure.

The professionals at Platt Hill Nursery are happy to help and can answer your questions about when to plant spring bulbs. We sell bulbs, perennials, annuals, and a range of midwest flowering trees and shrubs to make your garden beautiful.

We also provide customer support and answer customer questions about all the plants we sell. Here’s what you need to know about when to plant spring bulbs.

Key Takeaways

Spring flowering bulbs are planted in the fall, about six to eight weeks before the ground freezes. In the Chicago area, that’s late September and early October.
Flowering bulbs must be stored properly when not in the ground. They should be stored in a cool, dark, dry location.
Healthy bulbs are firm and weighty. Bulbs that are soft, light and flaky, smell bad, or mushy should not be planted.

When To Plant Bulbs

The time to plant spring flowering bulbs is in the fall! This is because bulbs need time to settle in the ground, freeze, and then thaw in order to grow. The cooling period is important for starting the growth process.

We recommend planting your bulbs in the ground in late September or early October, as this will give them several weeks to settle before the ground freezes. Avoid planting bulbs in a waterlogged location, as excessive water can cause your spring bulbs to rot in place. If possible, choose a time to plant when the weather is cool and the ground is not too wet.

Bulbs To Plant for Spring Blooming

There are many types of bulbs that you can plant for spring blooming. Some examples of these plant types include:

Crocuses. Crocuses are early spring blooming flowers. They produce yellow, white or purple blossoms with yellow insides. These dainty bulbs produce flowers that are about 5 to 6 inches tall. Often, you will see the first crocuses growing when snow is still on the ground.

Snowdrops. Snowdrops produce flowers that are 6 to 12 inches long. These flowers open pointing toward the ground. As the name implies, snowdrops are flowers that open up early – even earlier than crocuses.

Grape hyacinth. Just as you might expect, grape hyacinths produce blossoms that look like clusters of grapes. These delicate flowers are approximately 6 to 12 inches tall and bloom in midspring.

Fritillaria. This plant is in the lily family and produces striking flowers that can be anywhere from 6 inches to 3 feet tall. Fritillaria is both exotic looking and unusual, bringing a touch of something different to your garden.

Daffodils. Daffodils are classic spring flowers that can be anywhere from 14 to 24 inches tall, with yellow or yellow and white flowers. These trumpet shaped blossoms signal the beginning of spring in many areas and are a favorite for decorating tables and bouquets.

Tulips. Tulips are another spring favorite. These simple, elegant flowers come in almost as many colors as there are in the rainbow. Tulips are listed as early, mid or late season on their packaging, so you can choose the time that works best for your landscape.

Irises. Irises bloom in late spring or early summer. These classic bulb flowers produce complex blossoms that come in a range of colors, although purple irises are the most popular.

Alliums. Allium flowers, also called ornamental onions, range in height from 3 inches to 2 feet tall. These blossoms are large and spherical. They come in colors ranging from purple, white, and pink.

When To Plant Daffodil Bulbs

Plant your daffodil bulbs starting in late September or early October. Choose a day when the weather is cool and the evenings have been dropping into the 50’s or 40’s.

Plant daffodil bulbs in well-draining soil in a location where the flowers will get at least 6 hours of direct sun each day. A good rule of thumb for planting bulbs is to plant the bulb at three times the size of the bulb. For example if the bulb is 2 inches tall, you would plant it 6 inches deep.

When To Plant Tulip Bulbs

Plant your tulip bulbs starting in late September or early October, at a time when the temperature at night is in the 40’s or 50’s on a regular basis. Plant your tulip bulbs in a location where the soil drains well and is not routinely waterlogged.

Place bulbs in the ground with the pointed end facing up. Bulbs should be placed in the ground in holes 8 inches deep. For best effect, cluster tulips together in groups of 10 or more.

Bottom Line

Spring bulbs like tulips, daffodils, alliums, snowdrops and crocuses are classic flowers that add cheer to your garden.

If you want color in your garden throughout the entire spring and into the summer, choose a range of bulbs and perennials that flower at different times. For example, plant crocuses for early blooming, tulips for mid-spring blooming and late-spring irises to ensure that your garden is beautiful throughout the season.

Want more information about maintaining a beautiful garden in the spring? See our spring guide to lawn care or stop by the Platt Hill Nursery for some beautiful annuals.

But if you want bulbs to grace your garden with beautiful blooms next spring, set your calendar to watch the arrival of spring blooming bulbs, in Platt Hill Nursery around Labor Day. Platt Hill Nursery sells a range of products to make your garden beautiful all year round.

The post When To Plant Spring Bulbs appeared first on Platt Hill Nursery.

Creating Symmetry and Balance in Your Garden Space

Platt Hill Nursery — Mon, 28 Aug 2023 11:00:06 +0000

A balanced garden is a balanced mind.

A balanced design is paramount in bringing a sense of equilibrium and peace that we long for in a garden. Symmetry is one method to bring balance into the garden, but it is not the only way. In fact, an asymmetrical design can also create harmony, if it’s done in a balanced way. In this article, you’ll learn what balance is and how to create it both in symmetrical and asymmetrical spaces!

What Makes a Garden Feel Out of Balance?

Have you ever been in a garden or park that makes you feel uneasy or off-kilter, almost like you’re sliding to one side of the yard or that something is missing. It’s easy to identify the sense that “something doesn’t feel right in this space,” but often it’s hard to pinpoint exactly what is making you feel that way. Underlying this feeling could be an unbalanced design—e.g. too many shrubs over there, not enough perennials over here, or a big driveway that’s throwing everything off.

The Key Understanding Balance: Weight

To create a balanced garden space, you need to consider each plant’s visual “weight.” The weight of a plant is how large of a presence it has in your landscape. Size is the most obvious factor that contributes to a plant’s weight, but it is not the only ingredient. In fact, there are three key elements of weight: size, color, and density.

Size: In the most simple terms, size comes from the height and width of a plant. Bigger plants have a bigger presence, and hence a larger weight. Keep in mind that both vertical and horizontal dimensions contribute to weight. For example, a short but wide lilac could have the same overall weight as a columnar Rose of Sharon.
Color: This also contributes to a plant’s weight in the landscape. Even if two plants are the same size, the darker color of one may give it a greater presence and thus make it appear to occupy more space. The rule is that darker colors have a greater weight in the garden than lighter ones. For example, a dark green juniper will have a larger weight than a light green pine of the same size.
Density: This is the final factor that contributes to a plant’s overall weight in the garden. Plants with wispy, thin, and less dense branches have a lighter weight. Whereas, plants with thicker branches, and denser needles or leaves have a greater weight.

How Does Weight Create Balance?

To understand how weight contributes to a balanced space, just imagine your yard like a teeter-totter or old-fashioned scale. If you have a lot of heavy plants on one side of the yard, and lighter ones on the other, you’ll create an imbalance. Alternatively, if you have similar weights of plants on either side of the yard, the space will be in balance. Knowing this, we can now see that symmetry is not the only way to create balance. In fact, asymmetrical plantings can also create a sense of equilibrium, as long as you’ve balanced the different weights of plants.

How to Layout a Perfect Garden

Balance Through Symmetry in an Illinois Garden

Symmetry in gardens has been around since the classical and neo-classical times. Creating symmetrical plantings brings a sense of order and, in more elaborate gardens, even creates awe. Have you ever walked down a path of symmetrical elms reaching over on each side? Have you ever stood at a fountain with identical beds of lavender, lilies, and roses around you? These are the spaces that people want to have marriage ceremonies in. They bring balance, harmony, and a sense of perfection.

Balance Through Asymmetry in Illinois Garden

Fortunately, symmetry is not the only way to create a balanced space. If it was, then every garden besides formal ones would leave us with an uneasy, awkward feeling, but they don’t. Plenty of asymmetrical gardens create harmony and equilibrium. The key is to balance plantings with other plantings of similar weights. Here are some examples:

Balancing Trees and Shrubs: try to imagine a space where a tall tree on one side of your yard is balanced by several dense shrubs on the other side. What kind of shrubs do you see? Perhaps a grouping of a dark juniper, a tall lilac, and medium-sized viburnum? Balancing plants is not an objective science. Use your own feel and judgment to decide what feels balanced in your space.
Balancing Perennials: once you realize that not only size, but color and density contribute to weight, then you can be more creative in balancing perennials. Imagine four of your favorite perennials, for example, daylilies, coneflowers, yarrow, and garden phlox. Now, how would you balance these? Arguably, the daylilies have the greatest density and weight, followed by the phlox. You could pair the daylilies with the wispier yarrow, and the coneflowers with the phlox for a balanced look.

How To Create Balance Throughout the Winter

When the leaves come off the deciduous trees, evergreens remain in our garden spaces. To maintain a balanced look throughout the winter, it’s helpful to ensure that the evergreens are balanced against each other. Having a balanced space of evergreen trees and shrubs creates a harmonious skeleton to your yard that remains during the whole year.

A healthy garden goes a long way to fostering our own wellness at home, and balance is key to a harmonious design. For more inspiration on creating garden spaces, feel free to visit our garden centers in Bloomingdale and Carpentersville!

Platt Hill Nursery is Chicago’s premier garden center and nursery.

The post Creating Symmetry and Balance in Your Garden Space appeared first on Platt Hill Nursery.