Pollinator plants attract a range of pollinators, but most especially bees! Chicago area bees are responsible for many of the flowers and foods that we eat. Did you know that 80 percent of the world’s flowering plants need a pollinator to reproduce, and about 30% of our food is created with the help of pollinators?

We need pollinators for everything from fruits and vegetables to nuts and spices. Filling your garden with pollinator plants can help ensure that your flower garden and vegetable garden will be a success. In this article, we’ll talk about the 25 best pollinator plants for your garden. We’ll discuss popular perennials as well as annuals that can help attract pollinators to your garden.

The Best Plants for a Pollinator Garden

1. Calamint

Calamintha nepeta, also known as lesser calamint, is a fantastic pollinator plant due to its abundant, long-lasting blooms. From summer to fall, it attracts bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects with its minty fragrance and nectar-rich flowers. Its compact size and easy care make it perfect for garden beds or borders. Plus, it’s drought-tolerant, making it a low-maintenance way to support local pollinators!

2. Basil

Basil is a fantastic pollinator! Once basil starts to produce large flowers, the leaves can become bitter or lose their flavor, but that doesn’t have to stop you from consuming basil. Basil flowers are edible, just like the leaves. Consider including basil flowers in your salads, but don’t forget to leave some buds in your garden to attract pollinators.

3. Bee Balm

Bee balm attracts a range of pollinators, not just bees! These funky, quirky flowers can attract butterflies and hummingbirds as well. Bee balm plants go by many names including horsemint, bergamot, and Oswego tea. In the past, bee balm has been used to treat bee stings (hence the common name bee balm). This plant is a prized garden perennial because it’s easy to grow and produces impressive flowers year-round.

4. Button Bush

Do you have uncommonly wet soil on your property? Want an unusual flowering plant for your home landscape? The button bush may be the perfect flower type for you. This distinctive shrub has spherical button-shaped flowers that attract pollinators. Button bush doesn’t grow well on dry soil, so this is a good option for the area around your dry creek bed.

5. Chokeberry

Chokeberry shrubs have ornamental qualities at various times throughout the year, including spring when they boast beautiful white flowers, and in fall, when they produce berries (either red or black). The berries are tart (but not poisonous), so birds tend not to eat them, and they remain on the bush for a long time, adding color to the landscape. Chokeberry can be used in canning for jams and jellies.

6. Cilantro

Cilantro makes a great addition to some dishes, but if you allow the plant to produce its beautiful white flowers, it will draw bees and other pollinators to your space. Cilantro grows best in full sun or light shade, with well-draining soil. It’s a small plant that can be grown on the edges of your garden to attract pollinators. If you like the herb, set aside some to be used in cooking.

8. Cosmos

Cosmos are daisy-like flowers that come in a variety of colors including yellow and pink. This self-seeding plant comes back year after year and attracts butterflies. With long-lasting blossoms, cosmos add color and good cheer to your flower garden. Plant cosmos with a range of other daisy-like flowers including cone flowers or coreopsis, to create a prairie-like beauty for your landscape.

9. Dill

Dill produces bushy, edible plants that are a favorite of both pollinators and caterpillars. Bees and butterflies love its delicate yellow flowers, while caterpillars—especially swallowtails—enjoy munching on its leaves. To ensure enough for both you and the wildlife, consider planting a little extra! Dill grows best in well-drained, low-fertility soils with plenty of sun. Sow seeds continuously throughout the growing season for a steady harvest and pollinator activity.

10. Coneflower (Echinacea)

Coneflower has many excellent qualities that make it a long-standing staple of gardens throughout the Midwest. It produces long-lasting flowers that can be seen from early summer until fall. Once established, coneflower is resistant to drought. It tolerates a range of environments including full sun and partial shade, and it’s a perennial plant, so once it’s in place, you can enjoy it for years to come.

11. False Indigo

False indigo attracts hummingbirds to your garden, especially after a few seasons of good growth. In the first two seasons, false indigo does much of its developing beneath the ground. It’s only after these two seasons that your false indigo will start to show its most beautiful blooms. This shrub produces lovely flowers that will do more than attract hummingbirds – they’ll also catch your eye.

12. Ageratum (Floss Flower)

Floss flower is a tender annual that reseeds itself well, so planting it once will continue to produce flowers for a long time to come. Floss flower’s tufted blossoms can be scattered throughout your garden bed and will flower from late spring through fall. Plant floss flower for long-lasting color in your garden bed. Consider planting floss flower near yellow zinnia for a blast of yellow and purple color to attract pollinators of all types.

13. Goldenrod

Although sometimes dismissed as a weed, goldenrod is a North American perennial plant that has been used in the past for a variety of purposes including making tea and treating certain conditions. It is very attractive to pollinators. While goldenrod is sometimes blamed for allergies, it produces large clumps of pollen that does not carry on the wind. For most people, it is not an allergen.

14. Lavender

This drought-tolerant perennial shrub produces beautiful purple flowers that are both fragrant and beautiful when dried. Lavender plants last approximately 10 years and then need replacement. Cut lavender back to about 6 inches every few years to prevent it from getting scraggly. Lavender can be used in cooking, or you can dry lavender and place it in a vase in your home. Lavender is grown best in soils with poor fertility.

15. Lemon Balm

Lemon balm is a plant in the mint family which will produce attractive flowers if allowed. Lemon balm’s minty leaves have a distinctive lemon flavor. Once the plant has flowered, this flavor gets weaker. You can use lemon balm in your salads or fruit salads to add a zesty flavor, or allow it to produce blossoms to attract those pollinators like bees and butterflies.

16. Marigolds

Marigolds are a favorite annual plant that appears in flower beds throughout the Midwest. Favored for their easy growth and long-lasting blooms, marigolds are also great for repelling certain pests like deer, which find marigold blossoms to have an unpleasant odor. Marigolds come in a range of colors including yellow, orange, and red. The blossoms tend to get bigger and more beautiful as the summer goes on. Keep deadheading them to encourage blooming.

17. Milkweed

Common milkweed is a herbaceous wildflower that produces small flowers that grow in clusters. Milkweed grows up to 5 feet tall and needs full sun throughout the summer. Milkweed attracts all types of pollinators including butterflies and bees, and is also a larval host plant for monarch butterflies.

18. Peppermint or Spearmint

Peppermint and spearmint are excellent additions to any pollinator garden. Their small, fragrant flowers are magnets for bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects. These hardy, fast-growing herbs thrive in full to partial sun and well-drained soil. Be sure to plant them in containers or a designated area, as they can spread quickly. As a bonus, their leaves are great for culinary uses, making them a multi-purpose addition to your garden!

19. Sunflowers

This easy to grow flower is a self-seeding flower that attracts pollinators and then birds as their blossoms open and develop. Sunflowers are known for following the sun in its trajectory across the sky, and produce large, cheerful, shaggy blossoms that are a staple of late summer gardens.

20. Parsley

Parsley has good flavor and is easy to grow in an herb garden. If you grow more parsley than you need, allow it to flower to attract pollinators. Plus, parsley is a favorite food source for caterpillars, so planting a little extra can help support their growth. Parsley grows best from seeds planted in rich soil.

21. Summersweet

Summersweet is a flowering shrub that produces spears of flowers in July and August. Its fragrant scent is a joy for people and, once established, it can tolerate short periods of drought. Summersweet attracts pollinators of all types and when fall rolls around, the leaves turn a decorative yellow for lovely fall color.

23. Veronicas

This perennial plant produces charming purple flowers that attract pollinators. Although they can grow in partial shade areas, you’ll get the most flowers with limited water and full sun. Plant veronicas in places where it’s hard to get other flowers to grow, like narrow beds near pathways or spaces your sprinklers don’t quite reach.

24. Bluebeard

Bluebeard is a low-mounding shrub that produces fluffy, cloud-like flowers. This plant blooms in late summer and early fall, and attracts pollinators of all types. Too much fertilizer will produce lanky growth, so use fertilizer sparingly.

25. Zinnias

Zinnias are prolific bloomers and a favorite annual plant in many summer gardens. These colorful flowers come in different types including single, double, and semi-double, so you can choose the variety of zinnia that you prefer.

What is a Pollinator?

A pollinator is anything that helps disperse pollen throughout gardens. Pollinators help promote flowering and fruit production, and in many cases, are an essential part of the production cycle.

While there has been much talk in the news over the last several years about the decline of the European Honeybee, this is not a native bee. There are over 4,000 species of native bees in North America, and all of them are important to our food cycle.

What are Pollinator Plants?

Pollinator plants are plants that attract pollinators. Pollinator-friendly plants have sweet pollen that pollinators want for their food. There are a variety of blooming perennials that attract perennial pollinators. If you’re interested in buying plants for a pollinator garden, we can help.

What Attracts Pollinators to Plants and Flowers?

There are many visual cues you can use when trying to identify pollinators. Pollinators typically have showy blossoms and sepals. These plants often have blossoms in bright colors like red or purple. The best way to identify good pollinator plants or pollinator plants for bees is to ask the experts when you’re shopping at Platt Hill Nursery.

Find Your Pollinator Plants at Platt Hill Nursery!

Platt Hill Nursery carries a range of pollinator plants including the best pollinator plants for vegetable garden spaces. We sell zone 5 perennials and a range of products to make your perennial garden a success. To find the perennial or annual plants of your choice, search our plants on our website or contact the experts at Platt Hill Nursery directly.

One of the most widespread plant diseases is powdery mildew. This common fungus thrives best in climates that are warm and dry. Powdery mildew appears as a white fuzzy fungus on plants. It’s easily recognized by the spots and patches of white and gray mold that appear on plant leaves and stems. When allowed to grow uncontrolled, powdery mildew will quickly take over a plant and ultimately cause its demise.

While many plants are vulnerable to powdery mildew, many others are resistant to infection. If the disease is a problem in your garden, you can help mitigate the problem by choosing disease-resistant plants to grow.

There are also many treatments you can purchase to help plants that have become infected. Platt Hill Nursery sells a range of powdery mildew solutions for gardeners. If you’re wondering how to get rid of powdery mildew, the professionals at Platt Hill Nursery can help.

What is Powdery Mildew?

Powdery mildew is a fungus that affects almost all types of plants, from vegetables to flowers, fruit trees to forest trees. Powdery mildew gets its name from its appearance: white and gray colored, and powdery in texture. It appears on the surface of the leaves and can be found on other plant parts as well. After powdery mildew has infected a part of the plant, the leaves may turn yellow, and then brown. Powdery mildew can also cause leaves to become shriveled, dry, and distorted.

Powdery mildew is not just one type of fungus. Different types of powdery mildew affect different types of plants. For example, a powdery mildew found on a rose is not the same as a powdery mildew found on a squash. Powdery mildew needs a living plant to grow on, so when the plant dies, so does the mildew.

Powdery mildew produces spores that spread through the air. Water can prevent powdery mildew from spreading, so powdery mildew is most common in semiarid regions and less common in areas where high amounts of rainfall occur. Powdery mildew prefers warm days and cool nights. When leaf temperatures rise above 90°F, powdery mildew can die. Greenhouse conditions are often good for powdery mildew fungi, so sometimes growing plants in these conditions can be difficult. It’s important to use best practices for controlling powdery mildew in this type of environment.

Powdery Mildew Life Cycle

Powdery mildew is a white mold that grows on living plants. On plants that survive from one season to the next, powdery mildew survives from one season to the next. On trees, it can survive on the bark of branches as well as on stems.

Powdery mildew grows on the surface of affected plant parts in thin layers called mycelium. Spores of powdery mildew are produced on the upper leaf surface, on fruits, flowers, and on herbaceous stems.

The wind carries the spores of powdery mildew to new hosts. When leaves are dry, this is when powdery mildew spreads best. If the leaves become wet and stay wet, this kills the spores of powdery mildew and prevents them from spreading.

Which Plants Are Most Susceptible to Powdery Mildew?

There are many species of plants, trees, shrubs, field crops, and garden plants that are susceptible to powdery mildew. The following are examples of plants that may become infected with powdery mildew:

Powdery mildew treatment can help save plants, but powdery mildew is difficult to eradicate. It’s much easier to prevent powdery mildew than it is to get rid of it.

Identifying White Mold on Plants: Key Signs and Symptoms

Although there are many different types of powdery mildew, the symptoms of powdery mildew tend to be the same on most plants. Here’s what to watch for in your garden:

• White or gray spots on leaves, similar to talcum powder, found on the upper sides of the leaves
• Distortions in the leaves, with leaves becoming curled or shriveled
• Leaves may turn yellow and then fall off
• Tiny spherical fruiting structures that turn black as they age, may be clustered or in singles

The spherical fruiting structures described above are the cleistothecia, the overwintering bodies of fungus. These fruiting bodies crack open in the spring and release the spores that infect other plants.

If you’re having a hard time identifying powdery mildew on your plants, you can always send in a picture or bring a photo of your plants to Platt Hill Nursery, where our experts can easily identify problems like powdery mildew and downy mildew, two very common types of plant fungus.

Common Causes of Powdery Mildew

The severity of the powdery mildew depends on many environmental factors including the weather conditions during the growing season, age and condition of the plant, and the type of host plant. High relative humidity is best for spore germination, so the disease spreads quickly in locations where plantings are crowded and air circulation is poor.

As the relative humidity rises to 90 percent, the spread of the powdery mildew only grows. If the leaf surfaces become actually wet (like through a rain shower or because of a sprinkler), then spores cannot spread. Older growth is less susceptible to powdery mildew than young growth.

Once you know the conditions under which powdery mildew can grow, then you can prevent it from growing. Keep this in mind as you’re planting your garden.

Natural Powdery Mildew Treatment

There are many methods for treating powdery mildew. Here are some tips to follow:

• Avoid late-summer nitrogen fertilizer applications to slow the production of vulnerable succulent tissue.
• Remove all infected plant parts. If infected plants have reached the end of their life cycle, remove all parts of the plant and destroy them. This can prevent the powdery mildew from surviving in the soil during the winter.
• Avoid doing anything to increase the relative humidity of a location. For example, avoid overhead watering, or crowding multiple plants together.
• Never put infected plant parts in a composter.
• Prune plants to increase air circulation and reduce humidity in the vicinity around the plant.
• Consider rotating crops to slow the spread of powdery mildew. Remember, different types of powdery mildew affect different types of crops. Avoid planting crops of the same plant families in the same location year after year.

In addition to the suggestions above, there are many treatments that you can buy from nurseries to help stop the spread of powdery mildew throughout your garden.

Neem Oil

Neem oil is a botanical pesticide that comes from the neem tree. Neem oil is effective against fungal diseases including powdery mildew. It works best to eradicate diseases, but can also be used (to less effect) to protect plants.

To use neem oil to eradicate a disease, apply it on a 7-day schedule according to the instructions. To prevent disease, apply neem oil on a 14-day schedule, according to the instructions. Keep in mind that neem oil can burn leaves or flowers, so it’s important to always read the instructions and avoid applying neem oil within two weeks of using a sulfur spray.

Neem oil powdery mildew treatment is something that experts at Platt Hill Nursery commonly recommend to gardeners to help get rid of their powdery mildew. To find neem oil, visit our store. Have questions about neem oil? We have answers! See our previous guide to everything you need to know about neem oil.

Copper

Copper is a well-known, effective treatment for powdery mildew. Copper was used for centuries in European vineyards to treat powdery mildew, and it’s still in use today in gardens around the country. Copper fungicides are best when applied at the very beginning of an infection, either before symptoms are visible or just as symptoms have begun to show.

As with other fungicides, read the instructions carefully to ensure that you’re using copper fungicide correctly. Never apply copper fungicide on hot days or with other chemicals.

The Role of Humidity and Air Circulation in Controlling Mildew

Powdery mildew spreads best in high relative humidity. Controlling air circulation can help prevent the spread of powdery mildew, by keeping air around the plants fresh and dry. Some tips for controlling air circulation around plants:

• Avoid overcrowding plants. Follow expert recommendations for spacing plants.
• Stake plants to help them grow above the ground. Train plants to grow up high on stakes or fencing.
• Prune selectively. Eliminate unnecessary leafy growth to promote good air circulation around the plant.
• Use drip or soaker irrigation. Avoid overhead watering to prevent air around plants from becoming humid. If you must water overhead, water in the early morning so the plant can dry as the sun rises.

Pruning and Plant Care Tips to Reduce Mildew Risk

Pruning away disease can help control the spread of powdery mildew, provided that you’re careful about how you prune and the tools you use.

• Clean tools with a 10% bleach solution to prevent the spread of powdery mildew. Dip your tools in the solution and dry them before putting them away.
• Prune only the most infected parts of the plant during the growing season. Pruning your plants will prompt them to produce succulent growth, which is more susceptible to powdery mildew. Burn or dispose of the powdery mildew-covered debris in a sealed plastic bag. Avoid excessive pruning.
• Prune during winter months to promote good air circulation. Pruning at colder times of year will not prompt as much growth, and gives you an opportunity to create less than ideal conditions for powdery mildew.

Seasonal Maintenance: Preparing Your Garden for Mildew-Free Growth

You can prevent powdery mildew throughout the growing season.

Spring

• Install a drip irrigation system
• Give plants adequate space in the garden during planting
• Prune early to improve air circulation
• Train plants to grow up

Summer

• Watch for signs of powdery mildew, treat as needed

Fall

• Remove debris from infected plants quickly, burn or throw away in a sealed container

Winter

• Prune selectively to improve air circulation
• Clean empty ceramic pots for spring planting, get rid of any leftover plant debris inside

Want more tips about how to get rid of powdery mildew? The experts at Platt Hill Nursery have treatment recommendations of all kinds. We can help! We have advice to share from tips for growing bee balm to information about how to take care of roses. We can help you with outdoor and indoor plant pests, and plant insects. Stop by our Carpentersville or Bloomindale location with your questions, or contact us today.

It seems like there are a million pests that can invade your garden, from aphids to spider mites, cutworms to Japanese beetles. Japanese beetles in particular can be a frustrating garden nemesis because they’re not native to the United States, and they don’t have the natural predators required to keep them under control. Japanese beetles are native to Japan, where they do not present as great a problem for gardeners or farmers.

If you think that your garden is falling victim to Japanese beetles, it’s important to know how to identify the signs of an infestation and how to get rid of Japanese beetles. The experts at Platt Hill Nursery have a range of remedies. We can help you decide how to naturally get rid of Japanese beetles and or which commercial products to use.

The following Japanese beetle guide can help you learn the signs, know the life cycle of this annoying pest, and practice prevention so hopefully you can keep Japanese beetles away from your garden. Whether you’re a newbie gardener or someone with years of experience, Japanese beetles can affect you and your beautiful plants. Platt Hill Nursery has what you need to get your problem under control.

What Are Japanese Beetles?

Japanese beetles are an invasive species of insect first seen in the United States in 1916. Japanese beetles were first seen in New Jersey, but since that time, they have spread throughout the east and are steadily moving westward. Japanese beetles are currently found throughout the eastern United States in all states except in Florida.

In Illinois, Japanese beetles are found in all regions (northern, central and southern Illinois). They are one of the most destructive ornamental pests found in the state.

What Do Japanese Beetles Look Like?

Japanese beetles can be seen in their adult or larvae state. Knowing how to identify Japanese beetles in either state can help you determine when you have an infestation problem.

Adult

Adult Japanese beetles are approximately 1/3 to 1/2 of an inch long, with a metallic green head and copper-brown wing covers. The sides and abdomen of the Japanese beetle includes white patches of hair.

Larva

Japanese beetle larva are C-shaped whitish or cream-colored grubs with tan-colored heads. They have easy to see legs and can be anywhere from 1/8 of an inch to a full inch long. To determine whether a larva on your property is a Japanese beetle larva (versus other types of larva), look for the pattern of spines and hairs on the underside of their abdomen.

If you’re having a hard time determining whether your property has an infestation of Japanese beetles and larvae, take a picture of the insect of your concern and bring it with you to one of our stores in Carpentersville or Bloomingdale, IL.

Females produce a pheromone that is attractive to males. Once they mate, the females burrow underground about 2 to 4 inches to lay eggs. Females look for moist soil (like a well-watered yard) to lay their eggs, as dry soil conditions are not as conducive to larva survival.

Females can lay eggs several times in a season. It takes approximately 2 weeks for the eggs to hatch. Grubs eat the roots of grasses and begin to burrow deeper into the soil as the days grow colder. Once the soil drops below a certain temperature, grubs become inactive until the following spring.

Grubs grow throughout the summer and are nearly done growing by the time fall arrives. When the larvae rise to the top of the soil in spring, they leave a cavity behind. In this way, grubs do a great deal of damage to well-maintained lawns. When the larvae rise, they pupate and turn into adult beetles, and the cycle begins all over again.

Signs of Japanese Beetle Damage

Japanese beetles feed on flowers, trees, shrubs, fruits, vegetables, and field crops. Adults feed on as many as 350 species of fruits, vegetables, forage crops, weeds, field crops, and ornamental plants. Roses, grapes, basil, cherries, plums, raspberries, currants, elm trees, soybean, hollyhock, apple trees, corn silk, crabapples, and birch trees are all types of plants that attract Japanese beetles.

Most of the time, damage from beetles is considered cosmetic. However, the damage can be drastic. Ornamental plants damaged by adult Japanese beetles may no longer appear ornamental. For example, healthy flowering roses can survive Japanese beetle feedings, but the blossoms are ruined. It’s important to get rid of Japanese beetles whenever they first appear.

Vegetables, fruits, and vegetables may be damaged by some feeding and killed by persistent feeding. In addition, vegetables and fruits that are not killed by feeding may be less productive throughout the growing season.

Grub Beetle Damage

Damage from grubs can be devastating to a lawn. Grubs chew grass roots, often killing the grass. When the feeding is severe, large patches of dead grass will appear. In some cases, you may be able to roll the grass back like a carpet, because the grass roots no longer extend deep into the soil.

Less severe infestations may not kill grass. Some experts say that healthy turf grass can tolerate 10 grubs per square foot. However, there are many animals that will dig up grubs to eat, thus doing more damage. When the grubs emerge, they leave a cavity behind.

Effective Methods for Getting Rid of Japanese Beetles

There are many effective methods for eliminating Japanese beetles on your property. It’s important to start this process as soon as they appear. Inspect your grass for signs of infestation. Inspect your trees and plants as well. Keep in mind that some damage can lead to more damage. Once damage is extensive, it’s very difficult to control. If you can control the problem when it’s small, you may be able to stop more beetles from targeting your plants.

Japanese beetles feed for up to months, and you should continue to manage the problem until the insects begin to disappear in mid- to late-August. Managing beetles in large numbers can be very difficult.

Adding Cover Barriers

Some cover barriers or even cheesecloth can help protect your plants like rose bushes. Avoid using covers at a time of year when pollination is taking place. Fruits, for example, need insect activity in order to produce their crop. For fruiting plants and plants that rely on pollination, handpicking beetles can be a more effective method of control.

Growing Japanese Beetle-Resistant Plants

Japanese beetles don’t eat everything. Some plants are simply not very attractive to Japanese beetles, including boxwood, confers, chrysanthemum, geraniums, forsythia, magnolias, common lilacs, rhododendron, oak, white poplar, and ginkgo trees.

If you’ve struggled with controlling Japanese beetles on your property, consider swapping out damaged plants for less desirable plants. You can get a range of Japanese beetle-resistant plants at Platt Hill Nursery.

Companion Planting

Sometimes just planting some undesirable plants near your existing target plants can help deter Japanese beetles in future growing seasons. Consider planting Japanese beetle-resistant plants near your more vulnerable plants in future seasons to improve the level of protection for your home.

Natural Remedies for Beetle Control

For homeowners who want natural remedies for Japanese beetles, there are several options.

Milky Spore

Milky spore disease kills Japanese beetle grubs but does not harm people. It’s a naturally occurring bacteria that can be applied to your soil any time that the ground isn’t frozen.

Applying Neem Oil

Neem oil is a natural insecticide that can be used to protect your plants from adult Japanese beetles. It’s important to follow all manufacturer recommendations when applying neem oil to your plants. Overuse of neem oil can burn plant leaves and flowers, especially when using it in combination with a sulfur spray. Careful use of this insecticide can be effective for smaller plants and smaller infestations.

Preventing Future Infestations

Although Japanese beetles can leave some gardeners feeling very helpless, there are many things you can do to prevent future infestations in your yard or garden.

Choose Plants Wisely

Choose plants that are less attractive targets. The pros at Platt Hill Nursery can help you find the shrubs, flowers, fruits, trees, and vegetables that are the least vulnerable to Japanese beetles.

Work With Your Neighbors

Infestations can affect neighbors. Work with your neighbors to devise a plan to make your properties less desirable to Japanese beetles. Help each other out by taking turns picking off beetles in the morning, or plan to landscape with Japanese beetle-resistant plants together.

Watch for Signs, Start Treatment Early

The best way to avoid a big infestation is to control a small one. Inspect your grass and plants for signs of infestation and start treatment as soon as you’ve noticed a problem.

Still Struggling with Beetles? Get Expert Help at Platt Hill Nursery!

Wondering how to get rid of Japanese beetles in your garden? Talk to the experts at Platt Hill Nursery. Contact us to get started with an effective defense against this irritating and damaging infestation.

Magnolias are cherished for their stunning, blooms and lush green foliage, but they can sometimes fall victim to a sneaky pest: magnolia scale. This pesky insect, often overlooked until the damage becomes apparent, can weaken these beautiful trees, causing stunted growth, yellowing leaves, and even dieback if left untreated. Magnolia scale is one of the largest soft scales in North America, primarily targeting magnolias like the Saucer, Star, and Cucumbertree varieties.

Telltale signs of an infestation include sticky, honeydew-like substances on the leaves or ground and the appearance of black sooty mold. Catching these signs early is crucial to maintaining the health of your magnolia. Fortunately, with the right approach and timely treatment, magnolia scale can be effectively managed, restoring the tree’s vitality. Understanding how to identify, treat, and prevent this pest ensures your magnolias remain healthy and vibrant, showcasing their full beauty throughout the seasons.

What is Magnolia Scale?

Magnolia scale is an insect that primarily targets magnolia trees, using its needle-like mouth to suck out the tree’s sweet sap. Scales weaken magnolia trees over time and also leave them susceptible to other problems.

Magnolia scales are a part of the group of “soft scales”, which means they do not have a shield to protect themselves. Soft scales produce honeydew, a sugar-rich liquid that’s produced by some insects after sucking liquid from trees. 

The scale insects feed by attaching themselves to the tree and sucking out sap, which weakens the tree over time. As they feed, they excrete a sticky substance called honeydew, which can lead to the growth of black sooty mold on the tree’s leaves and surrounding surfaces. This not only makes the tree unsightly but also attracts other pests like ants and wasps. If left untreated, magnolia scale can cause significant damage, including stunted growth, yellowing leaves, and even branch dieback, ultimately compromising the health of the tree.

What does Magnolia Scale Look Like?

Once a tree is infected, the scale will persist through multiple growing seasons. The life cycle begins with nymphs feeding on new growth in early spring. By early summer, males and females mate, and eggs hatch in July and August. These new nymphs then settle on the tree to survive through winter, continuing the cycle the following year. In addition to being spread by purchasing infected trees, the crawlers can move to other trees via wind, birds, or insects, making it vital to address infestations promptly to protect other magnolias in your landscape.

How To Treat Magnolia Scale

Magnolia scale can cause significant damage if left unchecked, but with the right approach, you can effectively manage and eliminate it. Early detection is key, so keep an eye out for the signs, like sticky honeydew and sooty mold. With timely intervention, you can protect your magnolias and keep them thriving for years to come.

Types of Magnolia Scale Treatment

There are several effective ways to treat magnolia scale, depending on the severity of the infestation and the time of year. These include:

• Horticultural Oil: Applying horticultural oil in late summer or early fall can smother the scale and their eggs, reducing the population.
• Insecticidal Soap: A safe and effective option for treating smaller infestations, insecticidal soap can be applied during the crawler stage when the young scales are most vulnerable.
• Systemic Insecticides: These are absorbed by the tree and target the scale from within, making them effective for larger infestations. They are best applied in early spring.
• Pruning: For heavily infested branches, pruning can help remove the worst-affected areas and prevent the spread of scale to other parts of the tree.

Each treatment option has its own benefits and timing, so it’s important to choose the right method based on your tree’s needs and the scale’s life cycle.

Chemical Sprays

Insecticidal Soaps

Insecticidal soaps, similar to chemical sprays, are chemicals that kill scale through direct contact. Coverage with insecticidal soap is key to ensuring effectiveness. Soaps dissolve after they’re applied and leave no residue, so repeat applications may be required to be effective.

If scales crawl over one another in layers, insecticidal soaps will only reach the upper layers. Repeated applications may be required in order to kill all pests.

Insecticidal soaps can burn plant leaves, so it’s important to follow all directions and read all labels to ensure that your soap of choice is safe for your tree. It’s also important to ensure the soap you’ve selected is effective against scale.

Dormant Oil

Dormant oil is a highly effective, eco-friendly treatment for controlling magnolia scale during late winter or early spring. This horticultural oil smothers overwintering scale insects and their eggs, preventing damage when the growing season begins. It’s applied when the tree is dormant, ensuring the oil doesn’t harm the foliage. Thoroughly coating the branches and trunk is key, as scale insects often hide in crevices. Dormant oil is an excellent first line of defense, offering targeted pest control without harming beneficial insects.

One effective product is Bonide All Seasons Oil Spray, a horticultural-grade mineral oil that quickly reduces pest populations. Applying it in late winter or early spring helps bring infestations under control before the pests can spread, making it an essential tool in your pest management strategy.

Systemic Insecticides

Systemic insecticides are insecticides that are absorbed by plants through the roots. They are not sprayed on the plant, like horticultural oils or insecticidal soaps. Systemic insecticides make the tree toxic to insects feeding upon them and give the tree long-lasting protection. Because the insecticide needs to be absorbed into the tree to be effective, it needs time to work.

Soft scale species like magnolia scale respond well to systemic treatment. To treat this problem, look for insecticides that include an ingredient called Imidacloprid.

A great choice is Bonide Tree and Shrub Insect Control. This systemic insecticide is a strong product that’s effective at killing scale when applied according to directions, but it can take up to 30 days to get through the tree. Once in the tree’s system, Tree and Shrub Insect Control will stay in the tree’s system for one year, preventing further damage.

You’ll find that timing is important when applying this type of product. The best time to apply is in early spring through early fall. Don’t apply to the ground when it’s frozen. If the ground is really dry, water the tree the night before applying.

Manual Removal

Adult scales can be removed by hand, especially if they’re found on the tree in small numbers. Use a gloved hand or a popsicle stick to remove adult scale. After removal, dispose of the scale insects far from the tree to prevent re-infestation. 

Scale can also be removed with a tool called a “scale scrubber,” which looks like a dish scrubber. To use a scale scrubber, gently scrub the affected branches to dislodge and remove the scales from the tree’s bark.

 It’s important to note that adult female scales may already have nymphs hatching beneath them. If the scrubber is used during a time when nymphs are emerging, manual removal alone may not fully resolve the infestation. In such cases, combining manual removal with other treatments, like horticultural oil or systemic insecticides, is recommended for more comprehensive control. Regular monitoring is also essential to ensure the infestation doesn’t return.

Tropical and Subtropical Plants

Tropical and subtropical plants like hibiscus, bougainvillea, and banana plants are ill-suited for winter conditions. These plants need warmth and humidity, conditions that are impossible to maintain during winter without a controlled indoor environment. For these plants, it’s best to bring them indoors. 

Pruning

If scale is only found on one or two small branches and has not yet spread to other parts of the tree, you may consider pruning to remove the problem. By cutting back and removing the most affected areas, you can reduce the scale population and prevent the infestation from spreading to healthier parts of the tree. Be sure to use clean, sharp pruning tools to make precise cuts, and dispose of the pruned branches away from your garden to avoid re-infestation. Regular pruning also promotes better air circulation and overall tree health, making your magnolia less susceptible to pests in the future. 

Will Magnolia Scale Kill My Tree?

Magnolia scale can kill your tree if given enough time. Watch for signs of distress in your magnolia, including:

• Dieback. Once healthy branches may start to show signs of withering and dying.
• Sooty mold. Leaves and a portion of the trunk may become covered in black, sooty mold.
• Tree covered in strange bumps. Mature magnolia scale can turn colors that resemble the tree trunk. When this happens, you may not be able to tell you’re looking at scale. While the color may not stand out to you, the tree branches will be covered in bumps. Some branches may have bumps and others do not.
• White waxy coating. Eventually, scale develops a white waxy coating. This can look like mealy bugs, if you’re familiar with this problem. Not sure whether you’re seeing mealy bugs or scale? Take several pictures and bring them to the professionals at Platt Hill Nursery.
• Presence of many ants and wasps. Ants and wasps love honeydew! If your tree has a lot of honeydew on the branches, you may notice that your tree has become a center of activity for ants, bees, and wasps. Follow the trail of insects to see what they’re feeding on.

Scale can take several seasons to kill your magnolia. Unless it’s treated, do not assume that the scale died during the cold winter. Scale can survive on a magnolia tree and will come back in the spring, starting with young nymphs that are ready to grow and reproduce.

Is Magnolia Scale Harmful to Humans?

Magnolia scale is not harmful to humans, however, unhealthy trees can be a danger. A large tree with heavy branches can become weakened by scale. Weak branches can fall. This can damage property or even cause an injury. When handling infested branches or leaves, it’s still a good idea to wash your hands after gardening.

Protecting Your Magnolias for the Long Term

Magnolia scale can be a serious threat to the health and beauty of your magnolia trees, but with the right care and treatment, you can manage this pest effectively. Early detection, combined with appropriate treatments like horticultural oils, systemic insecticides, and manual removal, can keep your magnolias thriving.

At Platt Hill Nursery, we’re committed to helping you grow and maintain healthy, beautiful trees. We offer a selection of hardy magnolia varieties, including the stunning Royal Star and Ann magnolia trees. Magnolia trees make excellent accents or can become the crown jewel of your yard. With beautiful blossoms, these trees provide years of beauty and even fond memories of flowers in the springtime.

If you need further assistance with treating or preventing magnolia scale, our knowledgeable staff is here to guide you. Visit us today at our nursery locations in Bloomingdale or Carpentersville to find the perfect trees for your garden and get expert advice on keeping them healthy and pest-free.