What Is a Common Pawpaw Tree?

The Common Pawpaw (Asimina triloba) is a native North American fruit tree known for producing custard-like tropical fruit—right in your own backyard. With flavor notes of banana, mango, and vanilla, this small tree adds exotic appeal to gardens across the Midwest and beyond.

Perfect for home gardeners, wellness enthusiasts, and eco-conscious families, the pawpaw is quickly becoming a go-to for those seeking edible landscaping that’s both beautiful and practical.

7 Reasons to Grow a Pawpaw Tree

1.  Tropical Fruit in a Temperate Climate

The pawpaw’s creamy, custard-textured fruit tastes like a mix of banana and mango — but it grows in USDA zones 5–9, making it perfect for places like Illinois.

2.  Native & Low-Maintenance

This native tree requires minimal care once established. It’s naturally pest-resistant and thrives in partial shade — ideal for suburban backyards.

3.  Beautiful Spring Blooms

Deep burgundy flowers appear in early spring, attracting pollinators and adding visual interest before leaves emerge.

4.  Pollinator-Friendly

Pawpaws are an important part of the native ecosystem and support local wildlife. Bonus: they’re the host plant for the Zebra Swallowtail Butterfly.

5.  Compact Size for Smaller Yards

With a mature height of 15–25 feet, pawpaw trees fit well into residential gardens and are perfect for small spaces or urban homesteads.

6.  Delicious and Nutritious Fruit

Rich in antioxidants, fiber, magnesium, and essential amino acids, pawpaw fruit is a healthy addition to your kitchen. Use it in smoothies, baking, or even homemade ice cream.

7.  Sustainable & Unique

Support biodiversity and reduce food miles by growing this native fruit tree — an eco-friendly alternative to imported tropical produce.

How to Grow a Pawpaw Tree

• Sunlight: Partial shade to full sun (prefers some shade when young)
• Soil: Moist, well-drained, slightly acidic
• Pollination: Plant at least two trees for cross-pollination and fruit production
• Fruit Time: Late summer to early fall
• Hardiness Zones: 5–9

PROTip: Protect young saplings with shade for the first year. Once established, they’re extremely resilient.

Is the Pawpaw Tree Right for You?

If you’re a woman who loves gardening, healthy living, or simply growing something unique and useful, the Common Pawpaw is a tree worth planting. It’s the perfect addition to:

• Home orchards
• Pollinator gardens
• Wellness-inspired landscapes
• Family-friendly backyards

Whether you’re growing it for the flavor, the health benefits, or the ecological impact, the Pawpaw offers more than meets the eye.

Where to Buy a Pawpaw Tree

At Platt Hill Nursery, we proudly carry healthy, ready-to-plant Common Pawpaw trees for Chicagoland gardeners and beyond.

Shop the Common Pawpaw here
Or visit us in-store to explore more native and edible trees.

When it comes to adding romance, drama, and vertical beauty to a garden, climbing roses are a timeless choice. With their arching canes and generous blooms, they bring old-world charm to fences, trellises, arbors, and walls. But while their impact is grand, growing climbing roses is surprisingly manageable—even for gardeners who are new to roses.

In this guide, we’ll explore what makes climbing roses special, how to choose the right variety, and the best practices for planting, training, and maintaining them so they flourish for years to come.

What Are Climbing Roses?

Climbing roses are not a distinct botanical group but rather a category of rose plants with long, flexible canes that can be trained to grow vertically. Unlike true vines (like clematis or morning glories), climbing roses don’t naturally twine or cling. Instead, they need support and guidance to “climb” using structures like trellises, obelisks, pergolas, and walls.

There are two main types:

• Large-flowered climbers, which tend to bloom in flushes throughout the season
• Ramblers, which produce a profusion of smaller flowers, usually once per year, and are often more vigorous

Why Gardeners Love Climbing Roses

Climbing roses bring a unique design element to gardens. They can:

• Soften the hard lines of fences and buildings
• Create living “walls” or privacy screens
• Frame entryways and windows with lush, fragrant blooms
• Add vertical interest in small gardens where space is limited

Many varieties are fragrant and come in a range of colors—from classic reds and romantic pinks to creamy whites and even yellows and apricots.

Choosing the Right Climbing Rose

When selecting a climbing rose, consider the following:

1. Bloom Time:
   Some climbing roses bloom once a year (typically in early summer), while others are repeat bloomersthat flower throughout the season. If you want consistent color, go for repeat-flowering varieties like ‘Tropical Lightning’ ‘New Dawn,’ or ‘Blaze.’
2. Growth Habit:
   Check the mature height and width. Some climbers can reach 15 feet or more, while others are better suited to compact spaces. Ramblers tend to be more vigorous and may need more room to spread.
3. Climate Tolerance:
   Choose varieties suited to your USDA Hardiness Zone. Some, like ‘William Baffin,’ are extremely cold-hardy, while others prefer milder climates.
4. Disease Resistance:
   Look for roses labeled as resistant to common problems like black spot or powdery mildew—especially important for warm, humid areas.

Planting Climbing Roses

Plant your climbing rose in full sun (at least 6–8 hours daily), in well-draining soil rich in organic matter.

Planting Tips:

• Dig a hole twice as wide and as deep as the root ball.
• Amend the soil with compost or well-rotted manure.
• Space plants 3 to 4 feet apart to allow for airflow.
• Position the rose about 12 inches away from its support structure to encourage airflow and ease of training.

Water deeply after planting and keep the soil evenly moist (but not soggy) during the establishment period.

Training and Supporting Climbing Roses

Because climbing roses don’t cling, they need to be tied or woven through their support as they grow.

Key Tips:

• Use soft plant ties or green vinyl stretch tie to secure canes loosely to structures.
• Train laterals (side shoots) horizontally—this encourages more flowering rather than just height.
• Start training when the plant is young and flexible for best results.

Popular supports include:

• Trellises and obelisks
• Arches and pergolas
• Fences and arbors
• Masonry walls (use rose training wires or wall anchors)

Pruning Climbing Roses

Regular pruning keeps climbing roses healthy and blooming.

Basic Guidelines:

• Prune in late winter or early spring before new growth begins.
• Remove dead, damaged, or crossing canes.
• For repeat bloomers, prune spent flowers throughout the season to encourage new buds.
• Keep older, woody canes if they’re productive, but consider removing one or two every few years to make room for younger canes.

Ramblers that bloom once a year should be pruned right after flowering in mid- to late summer.

Fertilizing and Feeding

Feed climbing roses with a balanced rose fertilizer in early spring, just as new growth appears. Reapply mid-season to encourage repeat blooming. Supplementing with compost or fish emulsion can improve soil health and boost blooms.

Common Challenges and Solutions

• Black spot or mildew? Improve air circulation and choose resistant varieties.
• Lack of blooms? Check for too much nitrogen (which boosts leaves, not flowers) or prune more strategically.
• Sparse growth? Make sure it’s getting enough sun and water consistently.

Final Thoughts

Climbing roses add romance and vertical flair to almost any garden. With the right selection, support, and care, they’ll reward you year after year with cascading blooms and head-turning beauty. Whether you’re framing a garden gate or transforming a blank wall, climbing roses are the perfect way to elevate your garden—literally and visually.

If you’ve noticed crusty, leafy, or even beard-like growths on your trees and shrubs, you might have wondered if they’re harmful — perhaps a type of fungus or mold. The good news? These curious growths, known as lichens, are not harmful to your trees. In fact, they’re a fascinating and entirely natural part of the ecosystem, and understanding them can help you better care for your garden and landscape.

Lichens Are Not Fungi or Mold

Although they may resemble fungi at first glance, lichens are not fungi, mold, or a disease. Instead, a lichen is a symbiotic partnership between a fungus and a photosynthetic organism — usually a green alga or a cyanobacterium. Sometimes, both are present. These two (or sometimes three) organisms work together to form what we see as a single growth.

• The fungus provides the structure and holds moisture.
• The photosynthetic partner (alga or cyanobacterium) produces food via photosynthesis.

This partnership allows lichens to live in all kinds of places, including your tree bark. But here’s the key point: lichens do not feed on or harm trees. They use the bark only as a surface to grow on — not as a food source.

Common Misconceptions About Lichens

At our nursery, one of the most common questions we hear is: “Is that a fungus hurting my tree?” It’s a fair question — lichens can look unusual, and many people associate them with decay or disease. But lichens:

• Do not penetrate the bark
• Do not take nutrients from the tree
• Do not cause decay

They are not parasitic, and their presence is not a sign that your tree is sick. In fact, they often grow on healthy trees, especially older ones with textured bark and good air circulation.

Why Do Lichens Grow on Trees?

Lichens grow where conditions are right — and that usually means a stable surface with enough light and moisture. Trees, especially those with rough bark and plenty of sunlight on their trunks and branches, provide ideal real estate. Factors that promote lichen growth include:

• Clean air (lichens are sensitive to pollution)
• Stable, undisturbed bark
• Good light exposure

Ironically, the presence of lichens can be a sign of a healthy environment!

Are Lichens a Problem for My Garden?

No — in almost every case, lichens are harmless. They don’t affect the tree’s growth, bark, or leaves. However, they may become more noticeable if a tree is already under stress or in decline (for example, losing leaves or bark). In these cases, lichens might appear to spread more quickly simply because they have less competition for light and space — but they are not the cause of the problem.

If you’re concerned about your tree’s health, it’s a good idea to have it evaluated by an arborist or horticulturist. But rest assured: lichens alone are not a reason to worry.

Should I Remove Lichens?

Generally, there’s no need to remove lichens from your trees. They don’t harm the bark or hinder growth. Attempting to scrub or scrape them off can damage the tree’s protective outer layer. If lichens bother you for aesthetic reasons, you can try these gentle approaches:

• Improve sunlight and airflow: Pruning nearby branches or thinning a canopy can reduce lichen growth by altering their preferred conditions.
• Avoid unnecessary chemical sprays: Lichens are sensitive, and chemicals can do more harm than good.

But overall, we recommend leaving them be. They’re part of a healthy, living landscape.

A Natural Wonder in Your Backyard

Beyond being harmless, lichens are actually incredible organisms. They are some of the oldest and toughest life forms on Earth, capable of surviving in extreme environments — from mountaintops and deserts to city sidewalks. They:

• Contribute to soil formation by slowly breaking down rock
• Support biodiversity by offering habitat for small creatures
• Help monitor air quality, since they absorb nutrients directly from the atmosphere

Scientists even study lichens for insights into environmental changes, climate shifts, and more. Having them on your trees can be a sign that your local ecosystem is thriving.

Final Thoughts: Appreciate, Don’t Panic

At our plant nursery, we believe in celebrating the many small wonders that nature brings to our gardens — and lichens are one of them. They may look unfamiliar or even worrisome at first, but now you know: lichens are not mold, not fungi, and not a threat to your trees.

Instead, they’re an example of how life finds a way to flourish in partnership. So the next time you spot a patch of lichen on your favorite tree, take a moment to appreciate this little marvel of nature. It’s been there quietly doing its thing — enriching your garden’s biodiversity, and asking nothing in return.

Have questions about your trees, shrubs, or anything else growing in your yard? Feel free to stop by or contact us — we’re always happy to help you grow with confidence!

Hydrangeas are the showstoppers of any garden, with their lush blooms and vibrant colors. However, when it comes to pruning, not all hydrangeas follow the same playbook. Some varieties need a light touch, while others thrive with a more assertive trim. The key lies in understanding how each type grows and blooms. Pruning at the right time not only keeps your plants looking tidy but also encourages a healthy cycle of growth and flowering. With so many types—like bigleaf, panicle, smooth, and oakleaf—it’s important to know what works best for each.

When to Prune New Wood Hydrangeas

New wood hydrangeas, such as smooth hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens) and panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata), produce flowers on growth from the current season. This makes them forgiving to prune, as their flower buds form on fresh stems. Correct timing supports healthy growth, vibrant blooms, and a well-maintained shape.

The best time to prune new wood hydrangeas is late winter or early spring, just before new growth begins. Pruning during dormancy allows you to remove dead, damaged, or weak stems from the previous season, giving the plant a clean slate for the year. Since these hydrangeas are not actively growing at this time, pruning won’t interfere with their natural cycle.

For smooth hydrangeas, like the popular ‘Incrediball’ or the ‘Invincibelle Limetta,’ cutting the stems back by several inches encourages strong new growth and abundant flowers. Some gardeners even cut them to the ground for a more compact plant with slightly smaller blooms. Panicle hydrangeas (including Limelight Hydrangeas and Vanilla Strawberry Shrubs) are best pruned less drastically—remove about one-third of the oldest stems and shape the plant to highlight its natural form and striking cone-shaped blooms.

Avoid pruning in summer or fall, as this can hinder the plant’s ability to store energy for the following year. Properly timed pruning leads to healthier plants with an abundance of stunning flowers that will brighten your garden for months.

Next, thin out overcrowded or weak stems near the base. This improves air circulation and prevents disease. Smooth hydrangeas, like ‘Annabelle,’ can be pruned aggressively—cut back stems to about 12–18 inches or lower for a compact, manageable shape. This approach encourages vigorous growth and large, showy flowers in summer.

For panicle hydrangeas, like the ‘Puffer Fish’ variety, take a lighter approach. Remove up to one-third of the oldest stems, focusing on maintaining the plant’s natural shape and upright structure. This variety benefits from selective pruning to support their signature cone-shaped blooms. Overpruning can detract from their elegant appearance, so it’s best to prioritize balance and structure.

Finally, clear any plant debris from around the base to discourage pests and diseases. These simple steps ensure your hydrangeas remain healthy and beautiful.

When to Prune Old Wood Hydrangeas

Old wood hydrangeas, such as bigleaf (Hydrangea macrophylla), mountain (Hydrangea serrata), and oakleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia), bloom on stems grown during the previous season. Their flower buds develop on old wood, so incorrect timing can lead to a bloomless year. Knowing when to prune helps maintain their health and keep their flowers flourishing.

The best time to prune these hydrangeas is right after they finish blooming, typically in late-summer. This timing allows for shaping and removal of spent flowers without damaging buds forming for the next season, which begin to develop in late summer. Pruning too late, especially in fall or early spring, risks cutting off these buds and reducing flowering.

Start pruning by trimming spent flower heads, making clean cuts just above a healthy pair of leaves. This step tidies the plant and directs its energy toward strengthening existing stems. Next, look for dead, damaged, or weak wood and cut it back to the base or a strong node to improve air circulation and support new growth. If the shrub is dense or overgrown, thin out the oldest stems at the base to rejuvenate it.

Avoid heavy pruning during the dormant months, as old wood hydrangeas rely on their existing structure for the next season’s blooms. With properly timed care, these shrubs will reward you with lush foliage and vibrant flowers year after year.

Inspect the plant for any dead, damaged, or weak stems, and remove these entirely. This not only improves the plant’s appearance but also promotes better airflow, which reduces the risk of disease. For shrubs that have grown crowded or unruly, thin them by removing up to one-third of the oldest stems at ground level. This gradual rejuvenation encourages fresh growth without shocking the plant.

Refrain from pruning during late summer, fall, or early spring, as the buds for next year’s flowers are already developing. Over-pruning during these periods can significantly reduce flowering potential.

Best Tools for Pruning Hydrangeas

Using the right tools for pruning hydrangeas makes the job easier, safer, and more effective. Proper tools ensure clean cuts, which promote faster healing and reduce the risk of disease. Here’s a breakdown of the best tools to have on hand:

1. Hand Pruners
   For light pruning tasks, such as trimming spent flower heads or cutting thin stems, bypass hand pruners are a must. Their sharp, scissor-like blades make clean cuts without crushing the plant tissue, which is ideal for maintaining healthy growth.
2. Loppers
   When dealing with thicker branches, loppers provide the extra power you need. These long-handled tools can easily cut stems up to 1-2 inches in diameter, making them perfect for older, woody hydrangea stems. Look for loppers with ergonomic handles for comfort during extended use.
3. Pruning Saw
   A pruning saw is the tool of choice for cutting through very thick or tough stems that hand pruners and loppers can’t handle. These saws are compact, sharp, and designed for clean cuts on larger branches.
4. Gloves
   Sturdy gardening gloves protect your hands from cuts, scrapes, and potential irritation from hydrangea sap. Choose gloves with a snug fit to maintain dexterity while working.
5. Cleaning Supplies
   Disinfecting tools between cuts prevents the spread of disease. Keep a cloth and rubbing alcohol or a solution of water and bleach nearby to wipe blades clean.

Investing in high-quality tools and keeping them sharp ensures your hydrangeas receive the best care, resulting in healthier plants and beautiful blooms.

1. Over-Pruning Panicle Hydrangeas

Panicle hydrangeas (like the variety ‘Strawberry Sundae’) are sturdy, reliable bloomers, but too much pruning can lead to fewer flowers and uneven growth. Unlike smooth hydrangeas, which can handle a heavy cutback, panicles, like the ‘Bobo,’ prefer a lighter touch. Removing more than one-third of the plant’s oldest stems can leave it sparse and disrupt its elegant shape.

How to Avoid: Focus on selective pruning. Remove the oldest stems to encourage fresh growth, but leave younger stems intact to support abundant blooms. Always aim to maintain the plant’s natural structure for that signature, round-shaped beauty.

2. Pruning Old Wood Hydrangeas at the Wrong Time

One of the most common mistakes is pruning old wood hydrangeas, like bigleaf (Hydrangea macrophylla) or oakleaf (Hydrangea quercifolia), in late winter or early spring. These types develop their flower buds on last year’s growth, so trimming at the wrong time can cut away all the potential blooms for the year.

How to Avoid: Wait until right after these hydrangeas finish blooming in midsummer to prune. This timing ensures you’re shaping the plant without disrupting the buds forming for next season.

3. Confusing Your Hydrangea Type

Not knowing whether you have a new wood or old wood hydrangea can make pruning feel like a guessing game. Pruning too aggressively or at the wrong time for your hydrangea type can result in bloomless seasons and stunted growth.

How to Avoid: If you’re unsure of your hydrangea variety, wait until after it flowers to prune. This gives you a chance to observe its blooming habits. You can also bring a photo or sample branch to Platt Hill Nursery, where our plant experts can help you identify your hydrangea and guide you on care.

4. Over-Thinning or Neglecting Crowded Stems

While thinning helps improve air circulation and reduce disease, overdoing it can weaken the plant’s overall structure. On the flip side, neglecting to remove overcrowded stems can leave the plant vulnerable to fungal issues and pest infestations.

How to Avoid: Strike a balance by removing only up to one-third of the oldest or weakest stems at the base. Prioritize cutting stems that are crossing or crowding the center of the plant to open it up without over-thinning.

5. Failing to Use Clean, Sharp Tools

Dull or dirty pruning tools can crush stems, leaving jagged wounds that are prone to disease. This can compromise the health of your hydrangea and delay its recovery after pruning.

How to Avoid: Always clean your tools with rubbing alcohol or a bleach solution before and after pruning. Keep blades sharp for smooth, clean cuts that heal quickly. Investing in quality hand pruners, loppers, and a pruning saw makes a big difference in the plant’s health.

6. Overlooking Winter Cleanup for New Wood Hydrangeas

Skipping winter or early spring pruning for smooth or panicle hydrangeas can leave the plant cluttered with dead stems and weak growth. This limits the plant’s ability to focus energy on strong new shoots.

How to Avoid: Take the time in late winter or early spring to remove dead or damaged stems from your new wood hydrangeas. A fresh start sets the stage for vigorous growth and vibrant blooms.

Deadheading Hydrangeas vs Pruning: Key Differences

While deadheading and pruning hydrangeas both involve trimming, they serve different purposes and are performed at different times. Understanding their distinctions will help you care for your plants effectively.

Deadheading

Deadheading is the process of removing spent flowers from the plant. This task is mostly aesthetic, keeping the shrub tidy and encouraging it to redirect energy into maintaining healthy growth rather than seed production. For hydrangeas, deadheading can extend their bloom season in some varieties, as the plant focuses on producing fresh flowers rather than sustaining faded ones.

To deadhead, simply snip off the spent flower head, making your cut just above a pair of healthy leaves. You can deadhead throughout the growing season as needed. For old wood hydrangeas, stop deadheading by midsummer to avoid accidentally cutting developing buds for next year’s blooms.

Pruning

Pruning is more structural and involves cutting back stems to shape the plant, remove dead or damaged wood, or stimulate new growth. The timing and method vary depending on the type of hydrangea. New wood hydrangeas are pruned in late winter or early spring, while old wood hydrangeas should be pruned right after flowering.

Pruning encourages a healthy framework, supports flowering, and controls the plant’s size. Unlike deadheading, pruning often involves removing more significant portions of the plant, including older stems or those that crowd the shrub.

Key Differences

Deadheading is light maintenance for aesthetics and extended blooming, while pruning is a deeper intervention to promote growth and manage the plant’s structure. Together, these practices keep your hydrangeas thriving and looking their best.

Find Your Perfect Hydrangeas at Platt Hill Nursery!

With the right care and pruning techniques, hydrangeas can be the crown jewel of your garden, providing stunning blooms year after year. Whether you’re maintaining old wood varieties like bigleaf or oakleaf hydrangeas or shaping new wood types like ‘Flowerfull’  or ‘Quick Fire’ hydrangeas, understanding their needs ensures they stay healthy and vibrant. From deadheading spent flowers to strategic pruning, each step you take enhances their beauty and longevity.

Ready to bring the magic of hydrangeas to your garden? At Platt Hill Nursery, we offer a diverse selection of hydrangeas to suit every taste and growing condition. Our team of knowledgeable plant experts is here to help you find the perfect variety, whether you’re looking for a pop of color from a ‘Tiny Quick Fire’ hydrangea, or a low-maintenance statement shrub, like a ‘Little Lime’ hydrangea.

Visit us in Carpentersville or Bloomingdale to explore our wide range of hydrangeas, gardening supplies, and tools. Need advice on pruning, planting, or caring for your shrubs? Stop by and chat with our friendly staff, who are always ready to share tips and inspiration.

Make your garden flourish with hydrangeas from Platt Hill Nursery—where beautiful blooms and expert guidance come together. Visit us today or browse our inventory online to learn more.

If you’ve got your eye on those gorgeous rose bushes but aren’t sure where to start, fear not! Platt Hill Nursery is here to be your gardening confidant, providing all the know-how you need. From the perfect timing for pruning rose bushes to picking beginner-friendly varieties and mastering the art of care throughout the diverse Illinois gardening seasons—our blog is packed with useful information on the care for roses.

When to Prune Rose Bushes

Let’s talk timing—a critical factor in the rose-growing game. In the great state of Illinois, the sweet spot for pruning your rose bushes is late winter or early spring, just before the new growth kicks in. This strategic trim not only helps spot and remove the dead or diseased wood but also sets the stage for a season of robust, healthy growth.

Picture this: a 45-degree angle cut just above an outward-facing bud. Precision is key, folks! So, mark your calendars for late winter, and get ready for your rose bushes to steal the spotlight with a colorful spectacle.

Types of Rose Bushes for Beginners

Choosing the right rose bushes shouldn’t feel like solving a puzzle. Meet the MVP’s for beginners—the Knock Out rose. Hardy, disease-resistant, and practically maintenance-free, these roses are your gardening sidekick, blooming abundantly to make your green escapades a breeze.

If you’re into vibrant clusters of flowers, Floribunda roses are your go-to. Forgiving and sturdy, they’re perfect for those just dipping their toes into the world of rose gardening. And hey, if you need advice or want to explore different varieties, our friendly folks at Platt Hill Nursery are here for you!

Caring for Rose Bushes

Now, let’s talk about TLC—because every rose deserves it. Understand their unique needs, starting with sunlight. They crave at least six hours daily, so find them a sunny spot in your landscape. Opt for well-draining soil to keep those roots happy, and watch for overwatering. Mulch? It’s like a cozy blanket for your roses—it retains moisture, suppresses weeds, and keeps the soil temperature just right.

As the seasons change, tweak your watering routine. Roses prefer the deep, infrequent watering style, so adjust accordingly. Be mindful of Illinois gardening seasons, protect your bushes in winter, and keep an eye out for pests during the warmer months.

Illinois Gardening Seasons

Living in Illinois means embracing all four seasons, each bringing its own magic and challenges. Spring heralds the revival of your rose bushes, promising vibrant growth. Summer is the grand showtime with explosions of colors, while fall adds a final touch of brilliance before winter’s hush.

Prepare for the colder months by pruning and laying down a cozy layer of mulch around the base of your plant(s). Shield your bushes from chilly winds, ensuring they’re snug against any unpredictable weather. By embracing the unique character of each season, you’ll nurture a resilient and flourishing rose garden.

So, diving into rose gardening as a beginner might seem daunting, but with Platt Hill Nursery by your side, you’re in good hands. We’ve covered when to prune rose bushes, suggested beginner-friendly types, and shared valuable tips for caring for your roses in the distinctive Illinois gardening seasons.

Now, roll up those sleeves, grab your gardening gloves, and let the beauty of rose bushes grace your Illinois garden!

Platt Hill Nursery is Chicago’s premier garden center and nursery.